Aalayam Kanden (Temples I saw)

Narasimhapuram Temple tower

Chevva Dosham, also known as Sevvai Dosham, Guja Dosham and Manglik is the occurence of Mars in the 2,4,7,8 or 12th house from Lagnam at the time of one's birth. When a person has such a planetary position in his or her horoscope, then the horoscope has to be carefully matched to find a suitable life partner. This process might delay the fixing up of marriage which is why it is a case of great worry to parents. There is an added anxiety as to whether the astrologer they are consulting is trained enough to identify a right and suitable match for their child. Astrology is a science and a good guide for those who take advice from ethical practitioners. A number of parihara sthalams have been identified to overcome the conceived challenges of Sevva Dosham and several people have benefitted from the same.

The Lakshmi Narasimha at Narasimhapuram on the Arakkonam- Thandalam- Perambakkam Road about 21 kms from Arakonam has been granting relief and solace to several devotees with Chevva Dosham. A number of devotees flock to this lesser known temple about 2 kms away from Thiruvirkolam ( Cooum) Tiripurantaka Swamy Temple.

The renovated Lakshmi NarasimhaTemple at Narasimhapuram

This temple dating back to the Pallava period, and renovated and extended during the Nayaka period was quite dilapidated till recent times but it makes us happy to see it renovated nicely, without losing its original look. There are a number of special features and unique characteristics to this temple.

1. The Hanuman here is found in a separate shrine outside the temple,facing the Lord. He is a varaprasadhi with his tail twirled over his head.

The Hanuman shrine at Narasimhapuram

2. Garudalwar is almost four feet tall and is seen wearing sixteen snakes as ornaments on his body.Worshipping him is said to rid one of Naga Dosham. Childless couples worship this Garudan and are blessed with bonny babies.

Nagabharana Garudalwar at Narasimhapuram

3. The temple has separate shrines for each one of the Ashtalakshmis. This seems to have been the case with perumal temples in this area constructed around the same period, as we saw in the case of Melvenpakkam Sri Lakshmi Narayana Perumal temple. The article on Melvenpakkam Perumal is available on Aalayam Kanden here.

A part of the Ashtalakshmi shrines that are found along the circumambulatory path
at Narasimhapuram

4.As we go around the temple after worshipping the Hanuman, Dwajasthambam, and the Lakshmis, we find Goddess Maragathavalli Thayar in a separate shrine. The speciality in this temple is that the Goddess sits on the Srichakram. The aged priest in the Thayar shrine told us, if you stood for one minute and looked at the compassionate eyes of the Thaayar, you can offload all your worries and walk away light-hearted. His words are very true. As we stood looking at the Thaayar, so carefully and beautifully decorated, we could feel our weariness lifting away and a sense of peace descending on us.

A view of Goddess Maragathavalli Shrine at the Narasimhapuram temple

5. The Ashtalakshmis are found along the circumambulatory path. After worshipping an equally beautiful Andal, we moved into the main shrine of Lord Lakshmi Narasimha. Words cannot describe the vibration found in the Sanctum Sanctorum. The Lord over seven feet tall, with the Lakshmi on his lap, looks at us with compassion. He is also known as Shanta Narasimhar unlike his Ugara (fierce) form in several other temples.
As the Lord is a Santha Swaroobi, the Goddess is not looking at him to pacify him. Instead, she sits close to her Lord with her hand around his waist, looking at the devotees who have come to visit them. Lord Narasimha unlike in other temples, is also holding his consort close and one can almost see a gentle smile around the corners of his mouth.

Sri Kalyana Lakshmi Narasimha at Narasimhapuram

As the Lord and Mahalakshmi are found in the Anyonya Bhavam, the Lord is also known as Kalyana Lakshmi Narasimhar. Worshipping him rids one of hurdles in marriage and doshams like Kalatra Dosham and Sevvai Dosham.

Procedure for Sevvai Dosha Pariharam:
1. Worshipping the Lakshmi Narasimha for 90 days continuously is said to rid one of all kinds of Doshams.
2. For those who cannot visit for 90 days, worshipping the Lord on nine continuous Swathi nakshatrams, lighting two ghee lamps at his shrine and circumambulating 32 times is equally beneficial.

The Lakshmi Narasimha avatar happened at the twilight zone. Worshipping Narasimha at Sandhya Kaalam, and Pradosham time, on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays brings health and wealth to the worshipper.

The Bhattar spoke about a number of happy families who return to the temple once their prayers have been granted to perform Thirumanjanam.

The temple is quite crowded on Saturdays and Swathi Nakshatram days.

How to get here:
The temple is just 55 kms from Chennai. If proceeding from Chennai, take the right at Empee Distilleries near Sriperumbudur. This road is Arakkonam Road. The road is not very well maintained and hence vehicles can only progress slowly. After crossing the Tiripurandaka Swamy temple the Narasimhapuram temple is on the main road and can be identified quite easily. There are a number of buses plying from both Koyambedu and Poonamallee to the temple.

Google Map Link

Temple Timings:
7.30 am to 12 pm
4.30 pm to 8 pm

Contact Details:
94425 85638/ Bhattar 94871 94649

Idols in front of the Shenbageswarar Temple at Natham Parameswaramangalam

Natham Parameswaramangalam - The name might ring a bell to history and heritage enthusiasts. Not before long, two temples in this little village along the ECR were in the news. The first, the extremely picturesque Kailasanatha temple, right in the middle of Palar River, and the other the Vaasthu Devapathi Perumal Temple, where bronze icons belonging to the Pallava era where unearthed during renovation.

Both these temples have now been completely renovated and have regained their lost glory and patronage. But there is yet another beautiful gem lying in the dust in the same village - the Shenbageswarar Temple.

The beautiful Kailasanatha Temple in the middle of Palar River

History of the temple:

Goddess Lakshmi chose a "Shenbaga Vana"(a forest of Champak trees) to install a Shivalingam and pray to it. She meditated for several years before the Lord. Pleased with her devotion, Lord Shiva appeared before her. Nandi Deva followed Goddess Lakshmi into the Shenbaga Vana and stood guard to see no harm presented itself to the Goddess or the Lord. Because of this, he is seen till even today, with his back to the Lord.

He blessed her saying the place she chose to worship him would always be special and even Goddess Soundaranayaki would assume the adornments of Goddess Lakshmi by giving up the Paasam and Angusam and holding the Lotus and Nilothpalam in her hands. Moreover, the first honours would always be offered to the Goddess in this Kshetram. Having said this, he left the Shenbaga Vana and moved up a small hillock on the Palar river and manifested himself in the midst of the wilderness.

Goddess Soundaranayaki was distraught that her husband had left her all alone at Natham and went looking for him. He had by then hidden himself in the midst of the wilderness, in the company of a snake that shielded him from the elements and a cow that showered its milk on him.

The Sthalapurana Idol at Kailasanatha Temple

The Goddess in an attempt to convince her Lord to come back to his abode in the Shenbaga Vana is said to have moved up the hillock on her knees, the imprint of which is still found in the circumambulatory path around the Kailasanatha Temple.

Goddess Soundaranayaki's knee impressions on the rock up the Kailasanatha Temple

The temple is said to have been originally built by Nrupathungavarma about 1200 years ago and then subsequently strengthened by Kulothunga Chola I , and then by Maravarman Sundarapandiyan.

Usually we find Shiva temples have five Goshtams featuring Ganesha, Dakshinamurthy, Lingodhbavar or Vishnu, Brahma and Durga. However, this temple has seven Goshtas, each one of them more beautiful than the other - comprising of Bhikshadana, Ganesha, Dhakshinamurthy, Lingodhbhavar, Brahma, Durga and Harihar.

The One-legged Bhikshadana :(

As you can see in the picture, there are inscriptions all along the walls of the temple. These inscriptions bear testimony to the patronage by the glorious kings of yore. King Raja Raja Chola I's queen Sakthi Thanthi Vidangi (Lokamahadevi) has been instrumental in converting the barren lands near the temple into fertile agricultural lands and then donating them to the temple for its upkeep and maintenance. During the rule of Rajendra Chola I in 1015, he has appointed a Sathvanjara Committee to discuss and explore Town planning. During the time of Kulothunga Chola III, a 16 pillared mandapa was built outside the temple.

It is sad to see that this mandapa has been brought down by the natural elements and passage of time, and portions of it have been used to create a mandapa over Nandi. Apart from this there are seven Shivalingams found along the Goshtas around the temple. These are known as Kailsanatha, Shenbageswara, Arunachaleswara, Jagadeeswara, Ekambaranatha, Valmikinatha and Vyagrapatheeswara.

Scattered Shiva lingams around the temple

The temple did not have vimanas for the Swamy and Ambal shrines earlier and it is really sad to see that when a donor came forward new cement vimanas have been built over the heritage structures threatening their stability and sustainability. I truly felt the funds could rather have been diverted to strengthening the weather course and the flooring inside the Artha Mandapa.

The Artha Mandapa

Each one of the dieties is a beauty in itself. Apart from the majestic Shenbageswarar who sits in the modest sanctum sanctorum which leaks throughout the rainy season, sometimes even putting out the few lamps lit inside, and the magnificient Soundaryanayaki who as her name denotes is a beauty unparalleled, even the other idols in the temple are unique.

Goddess Soundarambigai

The Subramanya in this temple needs special mention too. With the peacock turned in the opposite side (Asura Mayil) and weapons in all his arms, he is said to have been installed during Rajendra Chola I's time and is a beauty to behold.

Subramanya at Shenbageswara Temple Natham Parameswaramangalam

Apart from this Subramanya there is yet another at the entrance of the Sanctum Sanctorum. He is found with Gendi and Akshara Mala in his hand, in the form of Brahma Sastha.

Lord Muruga as Brahma Sastha

The circumambulatory path around the temple is full of creepers and overgrowth, strewn thorns and broken pieces of stone from the temple. If some Uzhavara Pani Kuzhu helps with the clearing of vegetation around the temple, it might attract more people to go around the temple, and take a look at the shattered beauties.

Harihara

The temple definitely requires a donor sensitive to heritage renovation to help with the repairs and strengthening. The walls and overall structure are still good, but will have to be protected before it is too late.

How to get here:

The temple is about 80 kms from Chennai. On the ECR if one proceeds five kilometres from Kalpakkam, you can reach the Vayalur Bridge. About a km from the Vayalur bridge is a junction called Kaathan Kadai. Turn right at this junction and proceed towards Anaicuttu Salai. In Anaicuttu Salai you will see a board which directs you towards Natham Parameswaramangalam. The Vastudevapathi Perumal temple is quite close to this temple and the Kailasanatha Temple on the Palar river is about a km away.

Temple Timings:

As there is absolutely no traffic to this temple, it is only open for poojas in the morning and evening. However, the Gurukkal stays a few houses away from the temple and is happy to open it for anyone who comes along. It is better to call him the previous day to confirm his availability.

Contact Details:
Shri. Sambagesa Gurukkal - 97900 70473

While visiting these temples, one can also visit these beautiful temples:
Vedal Vadavamukhagneeswara Temple
Musical Ganesha at Cheyyur
Cheyyur Kandaswamy Temple with the 27 Star Vedalams

Maha Avatar Babaji (Picture Courtesy: Maha Avatar Babaji Temple)

Maha Avatar Babaji - a saint born in the year 203 AD and experienced to be alive in the Himalayas still became a household name after Superstar Rajinikanth made a movie on him and the spiritual experiences through him.

Paramahansa Yogananda, another reputed spiritual writer, has written about the conversations he had with Maha Avatar Babaji, in his book "The Autobiography of a Yogi". The name Maha Avatar Babaji was given by Shyamacharan Lahiri and other disciples of the saint who met him between 1861 and 1935.

SAA Ramaiah who co-founded the Kriya Babaji Sangah to propogate the Kriya Yoga teachings of Babaji has had the privilege of building a temple for him at his birth place.

Where was Maha Avatar Babaji born?

The erstwhile South Arcot District has had the privilege of being the birth place of several saints like Thirunavukkarasar (Appar), Thirugnanasambandar, Sundaramurthy Nayanar, Sri Guru Raghavendra Swamy, Arutprakasa Vallalar Ramalinga Swamigal, Kanchi Maha Swami Sri Chandrasekharendra Saraswathi and Maha Avatar Babaji.

Born in Parangipettai (Porto Novo) near Cuddalore, as Nagarajan, to Swethanatha Ayyar and Gnanambal on 30 November 203, in the tamil month of Karthigai on Rohini Star, Babaji had a normal childhood like any other child. In fact there is a painting of Babaji as a child in the meditation hall of the temple, narrating an incident as revealed by him to his disciples.

When Nagarajan was four years old, his mother had put away a jackfruit for a family religious function and not knowing this, the little boy had eaten up the pieces before they could be offered to God. Angered by his act, his mother had punished him by gagging him with a cloth in his mouth.

Babaji's mother chiding him for eating the jackfruit

Swethanatha Iyer was a priest in the Muthukumaraswamy temple in Cuddalore. When Nagarajan was between five and seven years old, he was kidnapped during one of temple festivals and sold as a slave in Kolkata. He managed to gain the sympathy of his master who released him soon after and he then joined a group of wandering sanyasis and had an opportunity of meeting Sage Agasthya who advised him to go to Kataragama (Sri Lanka) and find his Guru who was waiting for him there.

With great difficulty, the 11 year old Nagarajan reached Kataragama where he met Saint Bhoghar and became his disciple. Bhoghar taught him Vasi Yogam and with his grace, he was also able to get a vision of Lord Muruga.

A sculpture of Lord Muruga appearing before Babaji at Kadaragama

After that he spent several years in Badrinath practising Kriya Yoga and then attained self realisation. All these facts are as revealed to his disciples Shri V T Neelakantan and Shri SAA Ramaiah. The latter has built a temple at the exact birth place of Maha Avatar Babaji at Parangipettai (Porto Novo) near Cuddalore.

Entrance to the Maha Avatar Babaji Temple, Parangipettai (Porto Novo)

The Maha Avatar Babaji temple is a very simple single shrine temple with an adjacent meditation hall. Currently construction is going on to build a mandapam in front of Babaji's shrine.

On either side of the sanctum sanctorum, there are sculptures of Lord Ganesha and Lord Muruga as he appeared before Babaji in Kadaragama. There is a Yaga Gundam in front of the shrine called Gowri Shankar Peetam. Babaji Padham used to be installed here but has been moved into the shrine owing to the construction that is currently happening. Every Thursday, abhishekam is performed for Maha Avatar Babaji and special pujas are held on his birthday.

Maha Avatar Babaji at the temple in Parangipettai

On the sides of the shrine are panels depicting various incidents that happened in his life and that of his primary disciples, as narrated by him to Shri SAA Ramaiah.

Babaji with his disciples

There are two decorative pillars in front of the shrine which bear images of his primary disciples. Behind the temple is a meditation hall, that has an idol of Shri SAA Ramaiah and paintings of Maha Avatar Babaji and incidents of his life. Visitors are allowed inside this meditation hall for uninterrupted concentration.

How to reach here:

Google maps link to Babaji Temple

The temple is located on Rave Main Road, Parangipettai - 608 502, Chidambaram, Cuddalore District.

Temple Timings:

Morning : 6-9.30 am Evening 6-9 pm
Since construction is going, the gate is generally open during the day and Babaji can be worshipped even though the priest will not be around in timings other than mentioned above.

Contact Details:
Mr Karthikeyan - 9994197935

A view of a stream running through the woods in the Srisailam Forest

Ishtakameswari Devi - The Goddess who fulfills all our desires! Who does not want their desires fulfilled? However, in order to achieve that, one needs patience, faith and endurance. The Ishtakameswari Devi temple is located underground in the middle of the Srisailam Tiger Reserve - A dense forest with no proper roads, access only through authorized jeeps, and the strength to bear with the one and half hour journey which threatens to juggle your bones and intestines!

During the last two trips to Srisailam, much that we desired, we were not able to visit Ishtakameswari Devi. There are a limited number of jeeps, that are allowed to ply into the forest and the booking must be made in advance (the previous night). This time around, we were very keen that we somehow visit the temple and our prayers paid off. We were able to book two jeeps the previous evening and were all set to go - armed with water, biscuits and pooja items, as nothing is available inside the forest.

Jeeps all set to go into the forest towards Ishtakameswari Devi temple

The jeeps are allowed to enter only at 9.30 am so we had to wait for a while outside the tiger reserve where there are shops for people to buy supplies, drink tea/ lime soda, considering the jerky ride. Soon, we were at the forest check post, where the entrance fee is collected, the number of passengers in each vehicle checked, and approvals verified. Each jeep is allowed to carry only five people, to make sure the vehicle is able to climb the uneven terrain comfortably.

One has to but wonder at the prowess of the young jeep drivers who maneuver the jeeps effortlessly through the dirt tracks inside the forest. Soon, we were moving into the forest, on one hand admiring the glory of nature as it spread before us, untouched and raw, and on the other hand, clinging to the side rods and the holders above, for dear life, making sure we did not fall out, as the jeeps juggled their way into the forest.

It was as if we were all put into a mixer to be churned up. Minutes grew longer as the 11 km stretch from the forest check post took close to an hour to cover. We then reached a landing, beyond which the jeeps could not go. From here, we had to walk through the forest, making our way over slippery rocks, and small pools of water.

Walking through the jungle towards Ishtakameswari Devi Temple

One has to be very careful while walking. It is better to wear shoes or sandals with a good grip so that one is able to walk comfortably through the wilderness. Avoid high heels or flimsy footwear. We could see a couple of people slipping during the hop, skip and jump through the stones.

Chenju children practicing their trade inside the Srisailam forest

Soon we came across a clearing where we could see the inmates of the forest - the Chenjus (hunters). These people stay within the forest and hunt animals. The women sell forest products like honey and fruits near the temple. The children are found practicing with their bows and arrows. Look at the little boy shooting at the target and the even smaller ones, sitting down and waiting for their turn!

A few hundred meters further we could see the first glimpse of the hunters settlement. Right in the middle of it, underground, is the Ishtakameswari Temple. Before visiting her, one has to go down steep rocks to the perennial stream that runs all around her temple, to wash their hands and feet.

The perennial stream that runs around the Ishtakameswari Temple

Senior citizens will definitely need help going down and coming up. We were lucky to be in the first few jeeps that went to the forest, so the temple was almost empty. One has to go to the entrance of a small cave like structure and then crawl inside towards the Goddess. Once inside the cave, there is space for the person to sit cross-legged.

The priest sits towards the right of the Goddess and it is amazing how he is able to sit in the restricted space, with very little circulation of air and light, throughout the day. The only light that comes in, is through the opening of the cave and at a time, only three to four people are allowed inside.

A sneak peek into the Ishtakameswari Devi Temple

Photography is strictly prohibited inside the cave. Once in, the priest allows the people to sit around the Goddess and meditate for a few minutes. He then asks each one to put Kumkum on the forehead of the Goddess while making their wishes. One can definitely feel a quiver running down the spine while doing this. The skin on the forehead is almost akin to human skin and the pressure of the thumb against it brings an indescribable feeling and you automatically feel tears welling up.

The picture of Ishtakameswari Devi (Courtesy: Ishtakameswari Devi Devalayam)

The priest then gives Kumkum and bangles and one has to crawl their way back into the opening of the cave and then carefully step out. By the time we came out, we found a long queue of people waiting for their turn to worship the Goddess. Many of them carry flowers, fruits, and sarees to adorn the Goddess. Once their genuine desire is fulfilled, they always come back to thank their Goddess and demonstrate their gratitude through their offerings.

A number of people waiting to go into the Ishtakameswari Devi Temple

Other than the main Goddess, there are a row of very old idols placed inside the thatched roof that constitutes the Artha Mandapa. The temple is estimated to be in existence from the 8th Century and has been popular even in those times.

Ganesha and other deities placed in the Ishtakameswari Temple

The Chenju women sell honey and photographs of the Goddess under a huge tree. Each bottle of forest honey is sold at Rs.500 for 500 gms and there are a number of takers. They also use the jeeps coming in and out of the forest for their commute into Srisailam and back for procuring anything that is not available in the forest.

Buying honey from the Chenju women at Ishtakameswari Devi Temple

Once darshan is complete, the people are requested to move back, in order to allow for the next set of jeeps to come in. So, soon we were on our way back, jumping up and down in our seats as the vehicle made its way through the rocky terrain. But there were no two thoughts in agreeing that this was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

One of the smoothest areas during the drive :)

How to get here:

The temple is about 21 kms from Srisailam out of which 11 kms are through the forest. It takes about an hour and a half to reach the temple. So one has to plan at least four hours to visit Ishtakameswari Devi Temple.
The only mode of transport is jeep. Only ten jeeps are allowed per day, so jeeps have to be booked the previous evening itself, if it is in a weekend. On weekdays, it would be wise to book the jeeps as early as possible, to avoid disappointment.
The jeeps charge Rs.800 per person which includes the fee paid to the forest department at entry point.
The jeep ride is rough. Although the drivers are extremely skilled, and there are safeguards like holders and crossbars, it is important that children and senior citizens are placed in the middle. To get a better idea about the terrain, you could watch this video by Naveen Konam here: http://youtu.be/wiWDjmo4ft0
People with back problems are advised to wear appropriate gear during the trip.
Please do not litter. The forest is extremely clean and free from any garbage which is a remarkable thing. Let us try to preserve the environment too.

Temple Timings:

The first set of jeeps is allowed inside the forest at 9.30 am and a maximum of ten jeeps are allowed per day. There are times of the year when permission is not granted so it is better to check in advance before planning a trip.

If you happen to be in this part of the world, you must definitely not miss visiting the Ishtakameswari Devi Temple!

The entrance to Hari Kanyaka Bhagavathy Temple

Every trip hides within itself several gems and treasures that are revealed to those who seek for it with patience, determination and passion! Our recent trip to Kerala had several such gems that were revealed to us which I will share in the forthcoming articles. Please note that the number of pictures would be few considering that temples in Kerala strictly do not allow photography inside its premises.

The Guruvayurappan Temple in Guruvayur is one that draws several hundreds of visitors each day from 3 am to 9.30 pm from different parts of the world. There are a number of interesting temples around the Guruvayurappan temple and it was good to see many of them listed in the brochures that are available in the hotels. However, the one we were looking for was not part of the list (as usual!)

After a soul-refreshing Nirmalya Darishanam of Lord Guruvayurappa at 3 am in the morning, we set out to explore the place we were looking for. Our driver too, did not know the place nor had he heard of it. Soon, in broken Malayalam, we were making inquiries. It might have helped if we had known the actual name of the temple, all we knew was that it was a temple devoted to Mohini Avatara and it was near Guruvayur.

After about five-six failed attempts, an auto-rickshaw driver came to our rescue - go to Ariyannoor and ask for Hari Kanyaka Bhagavathy temple, he said.

Thanks to Google maps, we were off to Ariyannoor soon. It is five kms away from Guruvayur and the map led us into small lanes among fields. With some guidance from the locals, we were soon in front of the temple. We subsequently found that we had taken a round about route and it was just one straight road to the temple. (See route below).

A view into the Hari Kanyaka Bhagavathy temple

The temple was up a slope and as we walked up to find very few people in it. The architecture is typically that of Kerala with the sloping roofs and a liberal usage of wood and brick in the construction. This is one of the temples constructed by Perunthachchan, the greatest architect Kerala has produced and dates back to the Seventh Century.

We crossed the threshold and went into the temple. However, we found that there is no entrance further. Surprised, we went around the temple, trying to see if there were entrances at the sides, but again could not find any. As we came to the other side of the temple, we found a lady enter the temple and go towards the left of the entrance. We almost ran to catch up with her to see how she was entering.

Trying to find the entrance to Hari Kanyaka Bhagavathy temple :)

We felt quite foolish when she effortlessly stepped over a short wall on the side of the temple to enter it. It was really interesting to see that there are no direct doors either in front or the sides. One has to enter a courtyard with a huge Bali Peetam by crossing a relatively low stone wall on either side. Was this a distinctive design of the times, or something that was done with a specific purpose or something that came up subsequently to protect the temple during invasions....only experts will be able to say.

Once we crossed the courtyard, we came to a long passage with platforms on either side. Inside this was a Naalambalam - an open courtyard with corridors running along all four sides. Right in the middle stands the Sanctum Sanctorum in which the Goddess whom we came looking for stood.

The ceiling was a treasure trove of sculptures depicting the Churning of the Ocean - the cause for Mohini Avatara. The brick structure of the sanctum sanctorum is visible through the peeling plaster which shows the remains of wonderful murals that had once decorated it.

One stands in awe till you are gestured aside, to give way to the priest bringing the deity in after Seeveli. (procession around the temple).

A beautiful portrait of Hari Kanyaka Bhagavathy adorns the Courtyard

We turned our attention to the Goddess - Vishnu in the magnificient form of Hari Kanyaka or Mohini. This is the form that Lord Vishnu took when the Devas and Asuras churned the ocean to find nectar. When both started fighting over it, Lord Vishnu took the form of a very beautiful maiden, and was able to take the pot of nectar away from the Asuras and share it with the Devas. Lord Ayyappa, is said to be the son of Lord Shiva and Mohini.

In this temple, Lord Vishnu is found in the virgin form of Mohini - Hari Kanyaka. With the symbolic Conch and Discus (Sanku and Chakra) on the two upper arms, she holds a pot of nectar (Amrutha Kailasam) in her lower right hand with the other hand placed elegantly on her slender waist.The beauty of the deity holds your attention. Truly a Mohini indeed!

Typical of Kerala temples, there is a Ganesha at the end of the corridor to the right of the Sanctum Sanctorum. Murals and elephants adorn the walls and corridors all around .

The lady who showed us the entrance, told us that this temple is worshiped by those who seek good marriage alliances. They pray to Harikanyaka Bhagavathy for a good marriage proposal and then come back after marriage to show their gratitude. There is a fifteen day festival that happens in the month of March-April, wherein the Bhagavathy is taken on procession atop a female elephant around the temple.

The temple is an ASI protected monument. Truly an architectural delight and a souvenir of the craftsmanship of Perunthachchan. His large chisels still adorn the temple as testimony to his architecture.

How to reach here:

The temple is about five kms away from the Guruvayur temple and there are a number of autos that ply to and fro. The name of the village is Hari Kanniyoor (which has now become Ariyannoor). Today a non-descript village, with two ancient temples (there is a Shiva temple too near the Hari Kanyaka Bagavathi Temple), this place used to be larger and more prominent than Guruvayur in the past and was the head of 32 deshams. (villages).

From the East Nada where the temple is located, one has to head East towards Guruvayur- Choondal Road, and the temple can be found on the right side in about five kilometres.The Google map link can be found here.

Temple Timings:

The temple is open between 5.30 am and 9.30 am in the morning and 5.30 pm to 7.30 pm in the evenings.

If you happen to visit Guruvayur, please take some time to visit this ancient and unique temple too!

The make shift temple at Marangiyur

Marangiyur is a non-descript village in Villupuram district on the banks of the river Thenpennai. Right at the edge of the village on the banks of the river, is the Parvathavardhini Samedha Sri Ramalingeswarar Temple.

Over the years, I have made a number of trips to Marangiyur, as my husband's grandmother lived there."Aaru Thirunaal"(the festival of worshipping the river on the sixth day of Pongal ) happens at Marangiyur every year and it is a delight to watch the village fair there. Despite visiting several times, I was not fortunate to see this temple earlier.

A few months ago, when I heard about the mythology of this temple and the beautiful icons found there from Shri Kannan of Sankara Matam, I became determined to make all efforts to visit at the earliest.

A temple associated with Ramayana:

When Lord Rama was going down South in search of Goddess Sita, he is said to have reached Marangiyur on a new moon day. This is the day that "Tharpanam"(rites for deceased ancestors) is performed, so he stopped by the banks of the Pennai river perform the same for his father King Dasaratha. As there was no temple nearby, he installed a Shivalinga and performed the rites before it. The lingam installed by Rama came to be known as Ramalingeswara.

Pitru Sthalam:

Over the centuries, those unable to go to Rameswaram to perform the rites of their forefathers, came to Marangiyur, worshipped Lord Ramalingeswara and performed the rites on the banks of the Pennai river. Since King Dasaratha is said to have been pleased with the offerings made by his son at Marangiyur, devotees believe that performing the annual rites or Tharpanam on Amavashya days at Marangiyur will earn the satisfaction and blessings of ancestors.

Sri Ramalingeswara at Marangiyur

History of the temple:

There are a number of idols in and around the temple belonging to the Pallava period and before. However, there is no concrete evidence of when this temple was first built. A total of 27 inscriptions from this temple have been recorded in the Annual Epigraphy Report 1935-36. From these inscriptions, we come to know that the Lord Ramalingeswara was also known as Thiruvirameswarar and the village was called Rajendrasinganallur in Kudal-Iladappadi of Rajaraja Valanadu.

An inscription from the second year of Kulōttuṅga-Chōḷa says that the Goddess Parvatha Vardhini was installed by Periyuḍaiyān Attimalan alias Vikrama-śōḷa-Vāṇakularayan, the Malaiyamān chief of Kiḷiyūr. The Goddess was called Tirupaḷḷiyarai-Āḷuḍai-yāḷ or Kamakota Nachiyar in the inscription.

Goddess Parvathavardhini at Marangiyur

An inscription from the fourth year of Rāja-mahēndradēva, registers a gift of 500 kuli of samudāya (common) land for the sacred bath, light and offerings by the Mahāsabhā of Nelvāyppākkam alias Rājēndraśiṅga-chaturvēdimaṅgalam, a brahmandēya in vaḷanāḍu, as an expiation for some damage caused to the image of the deity on the occasion of a hunting festival on the north bank of the river in their village.

Ganesha at Marangiyur temple

One of the Kulothunga inscriptions mentions a liquid measure named Arulmozhidevan. It is interesting to note that an inscription from the time of Saluva Narasimha mentions that as several shrines in the dēvadāna villages of the temple of Tiruvirāmīśvaram-Uḍaiyār had fallen into disuse owing to the Oḍḍiyan-galabhai and as the temple itself had fallen into disrepair and the dēvadānas had become neglected, certain taxes like jōdi etc, were remitted on these lands and worship was thereby revived in the temple by Annamarasa, the agent of the king.

There are a number of inscriptions of Konerinmaikondan, out of which one from his 21st year, states grant of 12 maa of devadana land conducting repairs at the temple. Marangiyur is referred to be part of Idaiyaru parru in Thirumunaipadi nadu. An inscription from his 22nd year states that the construction of the Nandi maṇḍapa was done by Tirumāgāḷamuḍaiyār and Sūryadēvar, sons of Mārīṅgulān.

Chandikeswara at Marangiyur

An inscription from the 6th year of Vira Rajendra deva states that Māḍālvi, daughter of Kōlaṅgoṇḍāḷ, a dēvaraḍi-yār of the temple, constructed the tirumāḷigai and tiruvāśal and the bali-pīṭha was set up by Aramuḍaiyāl, daughter of Mulaiyelundāl Periyāṇḍai.

Apart from the above, the temple had inscriptions from the time of the following rulers - Rajanarayana Sambuvaraya, Rajadhirajadeva,Jatavarman Sundarapandyan, Vikrama Chola, Māravarman Parākrama Pāṇḍyadēva, Achutya Maharaya and Vira Bhupathi Udayar of Vijayanagara.

Well, if you are not astonished by the number and level of detailing in the inscriptions, the idols strewn all over the place give you goosebumps. For example, take a look at this deity that can be found on the roadside near the temple. The villagers call this idol Sanga Kaala Kotravai. Look at the knife (Kattari) in her hand.

Tribal looking deity - Period - to be determined by experts - Marangiyur

Yet another absolutely awesome beauty, is the Kotravai from around 7th Century CE. This beautiful maiden with six packs again is found on the road near the temple waiting for care and attention.

Pallava Kotravai at Marangiyur

Mhoodevi (Jyeshta Devi) sitting on a lotus is rather uncommon and she is again found in a make shift shelter that the construction workers have made. This is also from the Pallava period. They say that worshipping this Jyeshta Devi on Thursdays brings harmony to the family. Now with the worship of Jyeshta Devi picking up in these parts of Tamilnadu, the trustees say that the eldest born in the family from the nearby villages brings offerings to Jyeshta Devi on Thursdays.

Jyeshta Devi at Marangiyur

Well,one could go on and on. While a number of broken idols are strewn around near the temple, some have also been moved to nearby new temples for safekeeping.

Beauty broken by two...the sad state at Marangiyur

Out of the idols found in nearby temples, three are really magnificent and catch your attention. The first is a huge idol of Lord Vishnu recovered from the river.

Lord Vishnu excavated at Marangiyur

Similarly a very unique Subrahmanya with twelve hands seated on an Asura Mayil devoid of Valli, Devasena is also a beauty to behold. A Vishnu Durga from the temple is also kept here for safekeeping.

Lord Subrahmanya at Marangiyur

The situation today:
Over the years, the temple got damaged and eroded, and although it was repaired during the Chola and Vijayanagara periods, this temple got totally dilapidated and fell a few decades ago. An ambitious effort is being made by the villagers to rebuild it The God and Goddess are placed within a makeshift shed. All the unbroken stones removed from the original temple are numbered and are being used to reconstruct the temple. To make sure the temple does not get eroded like before (although there is no water in Thenpennai currently) efforts have been made to raise the level of the ground much higher than the river level and then start the construction over it.

The project requires close to a crore of rupees to complete and the eighty year old trustee Sri Marimuthu, former VAO of the village, is making all efforts within his means to raise funds. He says if a proper archaeological excavation is carried out in the Thenpennai river near the temple, chances of finding inscriptions or idols are high.

Every rupee that is contributed towards this noble cause will go a long way in ensuring these beauties are protected and preserved and a temple with such mythology and religious faith will remain useful for our future generations.

All contributions may be sent in favor of Sri Ramalingeswarar Arakkatalai, Account No. 6184761697, Indian Bank, T. Pudhupalayam Branch. IFSC Code : IDIB000T134

How to reach here:

From Villupuram, one can take a bus to Kalpattu and Marangiyur is about one km from there.
Or From Villupuram when one is proceeding towards Thirukovilur, via Enadhimangalam, Marangiyur is found between Thiruvennainallur and Enadhimangalam.(Coordinates: 11.917137, 79.370320)

Contact Details:

Mr. Marimuthu - Trustee - 97519 66768
Mr. Soundar - Trustee - 98433 56682

The Lakshmi Narasimha Veeranna Swamy Temple at Urukunda

Aalayam Kanden has been fortunate in bringing to its readers several lesser known and unique temples near Mantralayam in the past. Check out this link to read about all the other posts about temples near Mantralayam. Yet another to this wonderful list is the very unique Lakshmi Narasimha Veeranna Swamy temple at Urukunda, about 30 kms from Mantralayam.

So what is so special and unique about this temple?

The Sanctum Sanctorum in this temple comprises of a Peepal tree under which are the idols of Veerabadra Swamy and Lakshmi Narasimha and both are worshipped as per Veera Saiva Tradition! The Peepal tree is considered to be the main deity and there is no roof to the temple. Surprised? Let us go back into how this all came into being.

The Sanctum Sanctorum at the Lakshmi Narasimha Veeranna Swamy temple Urukunda
Photo Courtesy: Adoni Places

History of the temple: There was a sage named Hiranya (popularly called as Eranna or Veeranna in these areas) who did penance for many years under a Peepal tree in Urukunda village. All the cows that grazed in the village used to flock around him and he spent a lot of time pampering and talking to them. The villagers brought fruits and food to him and sought his blessings. Sage Eranna helped to cure chronic diseases and ailments of these kind villagers.

One day, Sage Veeranna disappeared from his usual place under the Peepal tree. At about the same time, an idol of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha appeared below the tree. The villagers believed that the sage had appeared before them again as Narasimha Swamy. They placed the idol of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha under the Peepal Tree and started worshipping him.

They also wanted to place an idol of Sage Veeranna alongside the Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy for worship. Since Sage Veeranna had been like a guardian angel of the village, (Kshetrapalaka), they made a silver idol of him represented as Sri Veerabadra Swamy and installed it next to the idol of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha.

There is also another version of the story, that Sage Eranna used to advocate a lot for Saiva-Vaishnava unity, and after he disappeared two idols of Veerabadra and Lakshmi Narasimhaswamy were found below the Peepal tree and the villagers started worshipping them together within the same Sanctum Sanctorum.

Both Veerabadraswamy and Lakshmi Narasimha are worshipped as per the Veera Saiva tradition to date.

Sri Lakshmi Narasimhaswamy at the Sanctum Santorum of Urukunda temple
Photo Courtesy: Adoni places

Poojas and abhishekam are done to the holy Peepal tree. There is no roof to the Sanctum Sanctorum and one can worship the holy tree from the sides of the temple even if the main temple is closed. The temple draws several thousands of devotees through the year, who come to be rid of mental ailments and physical diseases.

Guru Raghavendra Swamy's visit: Once when Guru Raghavendra Swamy was travelling along the banks of the Tungabadra river, he is said to have told his disciples about the Urukunda temple and brought them there to worship Lord Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy and Veerabadraswamy.

Worshipping at the temple: As mentioned earlier, pilgrims throng the temple on Mondays, Thursdays and New Moon (Amavashya) days. The Telugu month of Sravana is very very special at this temple.

About ten to fifteen lakh pilgrims visit the temple during this time every year. On the third Monday of the month, the devotees make sweet rice on makeshift stoves outside the temple and offer it to Eranna Swamy and the devotees. Every year on this day, it rains very heavily in this area. However, devotees are able to cook the rice on the wet grounds using wet firewood which is considered to be a miracle of Sage Eranna.

On the last Monday of the month, there is a Pallaki Seva wherein the deities are carried to the river Tungabadra, for Abhishekam. During this month, people offer blocks of Vibhuti (holy ash) to Eranna Swamy and take it back to their homes. This vibhuti is then applied to the forehead of the person who is suffering from any ailment and is also taken orally and with the blessings of Eranna Swamy, the patient is cured.

People who stay in and around Adoni, take it upon themselves to visit Urukunda atleast once a year, especially during the month of Sravana, and offer rice, dal and jaggery which is used in the preparation of Prasadam. It is estimated that the temple provides food to a cost of around one crore rupees with the help of these donations during this month.

The Holy Peepal Tree at Urukunda under which Sage Eranna meditated

Marriage ceremonies in these areas usually begin with prayers to Eranna Swamy and once the rituals are completed, the groom and bride are brought back to the temple to seek blessings for a happy married life. They come back again after childbirth to offer the birth hair (tonsure) of the child to the Lord as token of gratitude.

The temple has been recently renovated and there is a large waiting area with shops outside the temple. This area would also serve as a place for people to stay and rest during the Sravana festival. Food is available at the Anna dhana chatra during the day for pilgrims who travel from long distances to visit the temple.

Shrine outside the Urukunda Temple

How to get here:

Urukunda is accessible by road and train from both Adoni and Mantralayam. It is about ten kilometres from Kupgal railway station and 27 kms from Adoni. Local jeep drivers at Mantralayam can help in taking pilgrims to Adoni, Basaladoddi and Budumuladoddi Hanuman temples and Urukunda which can all be visited in about half a day's time if one starts early from Mantralayam. (Articles about all these temples can be found in Aalayam Kanden here.) or one can take any local train and get down at Kupgal or Kosigi stations and take a share auto from there. Nearest place of stay would be Mantralayam or Adoni although there are a few modest cottages that belong to the temple.

Temple timings:

The temple is open throughout the day from 5 am in the morning till 8 pm at night.

Temple Address:

Urukunda Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Veeranna Swamy Temple,
Urukunda, Kauthalam Mandal,
Kurnool District,
Andhra Pradesh - 518344

For jeep/taxi services from Mantralayam to the temple, you can contact Mr Srinivas at 098850 27919/ 098859 72488

The waiting hall outside the Urukunda temple

The 7th Century rock cut Trikkur Mahadeva Temple

I first heard about the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram through a follower of the Aalayam Kanden Trust facebook page. I had plans of travelling to Guruvayur and Trichur in the following week and hence wrote back to him asking for further details like temple timings, contact details etc but did not hear back from him. Google searches yielded minimal information, but what I got added to the excitement. We did not know the exact location and timings, route or nothing further other than the fact that this was one among the oldest and very few rock cut Shiva temples of Kerala.

As usual, our taxi driver gave us a blank look when we mentioned Trikkur to him. He thought we were mispronouncing Trichur. When we tried to take help on the way, the passersby also gave the distinctive Kerala style shrug and shake of the head to say they did not know.

When we finally found the location and started the climb up the small hillock, we found the priest walking down after locking the temple. We were totally disappointed that all our efforts since morning had failed. The priest however, seeing us slow down, stopped to inform us that the "Chechimaar"were still at the temple and we could go in.

The entrance to the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram

The temple is in multiple layers. At the entrance is a multi pillared hall painted in bright colours right in front of the Dwajasthamba. The main temple complex is at a higher level with steps leading to it. There are also another set of crude steps leading to the Ganapathy, Sapthamatrika and other shrines on top of the hillock. There are other shrines around the circumambulatory path and below the main temple complex.

The sanctum sanctorum is within a cave on a hillock. Extensions have been made to include an Artha Mandapa and a Nada with steps leading to the main shrine. Apart from this, the rocks also hold the office block and other shrines. This temple is an ASI protected monument.

I have not heard of many rock cut Shiva temples in Kerala. Not just that, this temple also had several other unique features.

History of Thrikkur Mahadeva Kshetram:

Trikkur is situated on the shores of the Manali River, around ten kilometers north-east of Thrichur. The Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram is located about 200m above the sea level. In this temple, Lord Shiva resides as a Syambhoo. The majestically beautiful deity, is over six feet tall and is over two feet wide.

The Sanctum Sanctorum is located within a cave that is twelve feet long and eight feet wide. The cave opens out towards the north. In front of the sanctum sanctorum is a Mugha mandapa, that is carved fully out of rock. Even though the deity faces the east , during the Darshan, the devotees get to see only the right side of the Linga. ( ‘Parshwa Darshan”.)

The stone carved Mukha Mandapam insdie the Trikkur Mahadeva Temple

The temple is believed to be created by the Lord of fire, Lord Agni. It is also believed that Agni eternally resides alongside Lord Shiva. Due to this, the Ezhunnellath ( the ushering of the deity outside the temple) is never done on rainy days or on the days when the atmosphere is cloudy.

Goddess Parvathi too, perpetually resides alongside the Lord Shiva, personifying knowledge. Towards the West side of the sanctum, Lord Ganapathi is engraved on the wall of the cave. On the East side are two Dwarapalakas and on the Mugha Mandapa, resides a Saalagrama, which is said to have immense Vaishnava Chaithanya .

The floor, laden with rock, and the Namasakara Mandapa, which is constructed from sixteen rock pillars have a large number of beautiful carvings on them. Towards the North of the temple is a hall where Saraswati Pooja and Chakyar Koothu are conducted during Navraatri and Utsavas respectively.

It is also believed that this temple was first found by a person, belonging to a class considered untouchable in those days. He had been searching for his cow that had gone grazing, when he chanced upon this cave. He found the cow in the cave along with the magnificent form of Lord Shiva. He immediately ran and reported this to his master, a Namboodiri.

The Namboodiri, seeing the magnificent form of the Lord manifested in the cave, performed poojas to him. A floor has been erected in front of the temple, in memory of the man who had first sighted this temple. In the Utsava times, it is on this floor, that Kurathiyattam is performed. Since it was here that the temple was sighted – the village was named Dhrukpuram. (Dhrushti – sight) . Over time, the word Dhrukpuram shortened to Trikkur, goes the myth.

Cure for breathing difficulties:

There are numerous temples around the country that offer solace and relief to different problems. The uniqueness about the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram is that it gives relief to those who are suffering from breathing difficulties like Asthma, and breathlessness. The method of worship used to be rid of these ailments is also unique.

Kayar Vazhipaadu(The Rope Offering)

Yards of rope are offered at the feet of the Lord, or in the form of Rope Thulabhara ( offering rope equivalent to one's weight) . This Kayar Vazhipadu is said to have divine powers to heal Asthma and people belonging to different religions and castes come to this temple to offer Kayar Vazhipaadu to the Lord and cure themselves of respiratory illnesses. This method of cure is termed as ‘Daiva Vyaapaashraya Chikitsa’ in Ayurveda. The Chechimaar at the temple also mentioned that if one paid Rs.500 for this offering, then the Kayar Vazhipaadu would be done on their behalf for twelve years.

A look at the yards of rope in the temple one could well imagine the number of people who offered such rope to be rid of breathing difficulties.

Yards of rope offered as Thulabara to Trikkur Mahadeva

Apart from the Rope Thulabhara which is the most popular form of offering, devotees also offer Dhara (Abhishekam) of 108 and 1008 pots of water at noon, once they have been cured .

Lord Shiva is fond of Vilvam (Bilwa/Koovaram). Offering Pushpanjali with fifty one Vilva leaves is also another way of expressing gratitude after being cured. For children who are suffering from breathing difficulties, Karuka Homam or lighting of Pin Vilaku (lamp behind the Lord) is also done apart from the Kayar Vazhibadu.

The Dwajasthambam at Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram

The sacrificial stones (balikallu) and the flag pole (Kodimaram) are situated to the right of the temple. Ganapathi, Sastha, Antimahakalan , Kaali, Bhagavathi and Chaamundi are all found at different spots on the hillock. The Saptamatrikas are housed in what is called a Matrusaala. This concept and architecture of Maatrusala is found very rarely in Kerala. In the south west corner, the Naga deities are also housed.

The Saptamatrikas on top of the hillock

At the top of the rock, there exists a miniature well, which has a constant, natural supply of water. It is known as the Theertha Well , though hardly anyone ever uses the water in this well. Even in the hottest of summers, this well, miraculously, never runs dry.

One of the shrines on top of the hillock.

There are numerous rock engravings found in this temple, closely associated with Jain religion. It is said that many Jain saints have undergone their penance on this hillock prior to it becoming a Saivaite temple.

Procedure for praying at the Trikkur Mahadeva Temple:

All devotees must start their worship by first bowing to the Dhwajasthamba. Above the Dwajasthamba, is a Ganapathi who is worshipped next, either from below or if one has the ability, by going up the rocktop.

Ganapathi on top of the hillock at Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram

Then they must pray to the Sapthamatrikas and continue to circumambulate to the south west corner and prays to the Nagayakshi and the Nagaraja. After this, they must circumambulate through the North Nada and pray to Ganapathi/Sastha/Anthimahakalan/Bhadrakali/Bhagavathi/Chamundi all found next to each other on the North east part of the temple.

The circumambulatory path around the hillock

Proceeding to the main shrine , the devotees must pray to Lord Shiva, circumambulate the Mandapa, say a silent prayer to Lord Ganesha, come back to the main shrine and seek blessings of Lord Shiva again.

A number of festivals like Thiruvathira, Mahashivaratri, Navaratri, and Pradosha Puja are celebrated with great pomp and glory at this temple and people from different parts of the world arrive at this small village to partake in the celebrations and obtain the blessings of Lord Thrikkurappan.

The beautiful pillared hall before the Dwajasthamba

How to reach here:

Trikkur is about ten kilometres from Trichur in Kerala. Google map link here.

Temple timings:

The sanctum sanctorum is open from 7 am to 10 am in the morning and again from 5 pm to 8 pm in the evening. All other parts of the temple are open through the day.

Contact Details:

Phone Number: 0487- 2359500

Email: trikkurmahadevan@gmail.com

Acknowledgement:

My sincere thanks to Rahul Kochuparambil for helping with the translation of documents received from the temple in order to give complete information in this article.

The entrance to Adhipureeswarar Temple at Eithaloor

Very unique and lesser known temples have a way of revealing themselves. You get an opportunity to visit them not knowing anything about them, and once you do, the full power of what is being revealed to you hits you and you are elated, delighted and excited, all at the same time.

Recently, I had the privilege of writing and publishing the Sthalapuranam of Kailasanatha Temple at Nellikuppam near Cuddalore. More details about this temple can be found here on Aalayam Kanden. A young gentleman came forward to help with the publishing. When we went to Cuddalore for the event, he told me about Eiyaloor (also called Nesalur) a small village near EID Parry on the outskirts of Nellikuppam and urged me to visit it.

Once we went there, we found that the temple had been recently consecrated without compromising the divinity. Once we stepped it, we had actually entered a treasure trove. The temple had multiple unique features.

First of all, the temple has the privilege of having a complete puranam called Adhipurathalapuranam . This thalapuranam is an extract from the Brahmaanda Puranam - Uttara Bhagam - Kshetra Vaibhava Kandam - 68th Chapter which explains the significance of this temple.

Tripura Samhara:

Why is Adhipuram so significant? When Lord Shiva set out for the Tripura Samhara, with the Devas as his army, the Earth as his chariot, the four Vedas as the horses pulling the chariot, Lord Brahma as the charioteer, Mount Meru as the bow, the snake Vasuki as the string and Lord Vishnu as the arrow, he is said to have started from this place. Hence it came to be known as Adhipuri. The actual samhara is said to have taken place in Thiruvadhigai which was called Adhigaapuri. Adhipuri hence assumes equal significance as Adhigapuri. Over time, Adhipuri came to be known as Eithanoor because it was here that the Lord strung his bow and aimed the arrow for Tripura Samhara.

Inside the Eithaloor temple

Vali and Ravana:

Every day the monkey king Vali had the habit of bathing in the four oceans, going up to Kailash and worshiping Nandi Deva, Goddess Parvathi and Lord Shiva before starting his duties of the day. One day when Vali was bathing in the Southern Ocean, Ravana slipped his hands through Vali's armpits while he was praying with an intention to catch him unawares from behind. Vali lowered his arms locking Ravana's hands in them and tied him up with his tail.

He then completed his bath in the other oceans in the same position and reached Kailash with Ravana tucked behind him. When he worshipped Nandi Deva and sought permission to worship the Lord, Nandi informed him that Lord Shiva was currently in Adhipuram preparing for Tripura Samhara and that Ravana knew the way to the place. So Vali demanded Ravana to guide him to Adhipuram as a price for his freedom. Ravana requested Vali to release him first but Vali refused.

Unable to bear the pain, Ravana showed him the way to Adhipuram. Vali reached Adhipuram and bathed in the Brahma Theertham in the East, Padma Theertham in the South West, Gnana Theertham in the West, Soma Theertham in the North, Surya Theertham in the South East, Chakri Theertham in the North West, Irudi theertham in the North East, and Vani Theertham in the shrine of Goddess Padmathala Nayaki. He also created a theertham in the South named after him as Vali Theertham.

Vali holding Ravana by the tail and worshipping Adipureeswarar at Eithanoor

He then worshipped Lord Shiva in the form of Tripuranthaka and requested him to stay for ever at Adipuram and bestow his blessings upon those who worshipped him there. He also asked him to release the Ganga into the Pinakini river (Gedilam river as it is called today) created by Lord Vishnu, so that anyone bathing there was removed of all their sins. Lord Shiva was pleased with his devotion and released the Ganga into the Pinakini river. Vali then appointed Sangukarna ( a previous birth of Guru Raghavendra Swamy) to perform the poojas to Lord Shiva as per the agamas at Adhipuram.

Birth place of Enadhi Nadha Nayanar:

Eithanoor is the birth place of Enadhi Nadha Nayanar

Enadhi Natha Nayanar, one of the 63 Nayanmars, was born in Eithaloor. He was a skilled swordsman and trained the princes in warfare. He was an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva and treated anyone who wore the Sacred Ash on their forehead as Lord Shiva's incarnation. His competitor, jealous of his craft and fame, wanted to put an end to him and challenged him to a sword fight. Both men met in a bitter combat with their forces. In the ensuing combat, the competitor lost his men and weapons and had to retreat.

Wanting to win by hook or crook, the next day the competitor smeared the sacred ash on his forehead, covered it with his turban and challenged Enadhi Natha Nayanar to a duel. When Enadhi Nadha raised his sword to attack the competitor, he revealed the sacred ash on his forehead. When Enadhi Nadha saw the sacred ash, he dropped his weapons and stood motionless. Taking advantage, the competitor raised his sword to kill Enadhi Nadha. Pleased with his devotion, Lord Shiva appeared before him and gave him mukthi. The episode of Enadhi Nadha Nayanar's life is performed every year during his Guru puja.

Brahma Sarma Moksham:

A devout Brahmin by name of Brahma Sarma lived in Eithanoor. He spent all his time, on the banks of the river Pinakini, meditating on Lord Shiva seeking his vision. On one Sankaranthi day, Lord Shiva, pleased with his devotion, appeared before him and asked him what boon he sought. Brahma Sarma sought to find eternal rest in the golden feet of the Lord. Lord Shiva asked Brahma Sarma to witness the ceremony being conducted by Vali. On the fifth day, during the Pancha Moorthi procession, Brahma Sarma sang a verse on Lord Shiva called "Dwadasa Manjari". As he finished the verse, a dazzling light emerged from the Lord and from Brahma Sarma. Both merged into the Lord. Till date there is an image of Brahma Sarma at the location where he merged with the Lord.

An image of Brahma Sarma at the Eithaloor Temple

Brahma Lingam, Surya Lingam and Vishnu Lingam:

Lord Brahma, Vishnu and Surya have all installed lingams and worshipped Adhipureeswarar here to be rid of various curses. Hence it is believed that Lord Adipureeswara will rid anyone worshipping him of curses known and unknown.

Surya Lingam and Vishnu Lingam at Eithanoor temple

Which is greater - Knowledge or Wealth?

Once there lived two women Roopavathi who was very rich and Vidyavathi who was blessed with knowledge in Eithanoor. Roopavathi argued that Wealth was greater and Vidyavathi knowledge. Both sought the intervention of Goddess Padmathalanayaki. Based on her instructions, Kubera ruled that knowledge was greater. Enraged, Roopavathi cursed Vidyavathi to become a ghost. Vidyavathi sought the help of Goddess Vani (Saraswathi) to be rid of her ghost form. Goddess Vani created a theertham near the Padma Thala Nayaki shrine and asked Vidyavathi to bathe in it and regain her lost beauty. Vidyavathi did as instructed and regained her original form. Even today the theertham is found as a well inside the temple and those worshipping Goddess Padma Thala Nayaki are said to be blessed with eternal knowledge. Vidyavathi is seen worshipping at the feet of Dhakshinamurthy in this temple.

The Vani theertham or well of knowledge at Eithanoor

Other unique features:

The Saptha Rishis - Athiri, Bringi, Vishista, Gautama, Pulaththiya, Kashyapa and Aangeerasa are said to have worshipped Lord Shiva at Eithaloor and hence are seen on the vimana of Lord Adhipureeswara shrine. This is something that is not found in any other temple. Since these rishis are the ancestors of the Nava Grahas, the Nava Grahas are not found seperately in this temple and it is believed that the Nava Grahas come to Adhipuram to worship the Rishis. Worshipping here rids one of Navagraha Dosha.

The Saptharishis found on the Vimana of Eithaloor temple

Lord Brahma unlike the standing posture in the Goshta, is seen in a meditative posture on the Vimana.

Lord Brahma found in a meditative posture in the Vimana

Goddess Durga is found with Prayoga Chakra leaning on a lion and standing on the head of a bison. She is found in Tribhanga posture with four arms, her face resembling a middle aged woman.

Goddess Durga at Eithanoor

Lord Vishnu is also seen with Prayoga Chakra.
There are some inscriptions in the temple which speak about grants given by Rajasekara Pandiyan and Kulothunga III.
Saint Thirugnanasambandar is said to have stayed here for some time.
From the flagpost one can worship both Goddess Padma thala nayaki and Lord Adhipureeswara at the same time.

How to get here:

At the Nellikuppam EID parry Road, turn left at Melpathi Varasiddhi Vinayakar Temple to reach Eithanoor.
Coordinates: 11.7561965, 79.684052

Contact Details:

Kandan - 98947 53549
Senthil - 96557 91636

Temple Timings:

At the moment, the temple does not reach a large patronage, so please check with the Gurukkal about their availability before visiting.

The rustic beauty - Soundara Pandeeswara Temple at Karuvelankulam

I keep talking about this probably in every single post - because it just amazes me how the timing or choice of articles is determined by Him. Several months ago, REACH Chandra and I had visited different sites in Tirunelveli district for an assessment. During this time, as we passed Kalakkad, we found a damaged temple car in a thatched shed a few kilometres ahead, that looked extremely interesting.

The temple car of Soudara Pandeeswara Temple, Karuvelankulam

We almost jumped out of the moving vehicle, which really frightened the driver, who had to literally stand on the brakes to avoid us getting injured. A closer look at our surroundings revealed the temple and the details of the car. We were amazed at the miniatures that were found all around the cart. Most of them, were different forms of Lord Shiva.

Somaskanda Murthy on the temple car. The pen shows the dimensions

We went round and round the temple car awestruck, trying to brush away the cobwebs and take pictures of the different forms of Shiva, so beautifully depicted throughout the chariot. It was clearly a master piece of art, lying neglected in a little corner of Tamilnadu.

The various forms of Shiva found on the car of Soundara Pandeeswara Temple

I would have loved to post every individual picture on this article, but owing to constraint of space, I am forced to post this collage. The individual pictures can be found on the Aalayam Kanden Facebook Page here.

After having spent considerable time with the temple car, we decided to explore the temple. There was a temple tank nearby with clean water, and a tower right in the middle. Intrigued, we went into the temple and spoke to Mr Nellai Nayagam and Nambi Krishnan of Karuvelangulam village as well as Thavamani Bhattar, the priest of the temple. The discussions revealed many more interesting facets of the temple.

The temple tank at Karuvelangulam with the small tower in the middle

Legend associated with the Soundara Pandiswara Temple:

This temple is said to have been built by Jatavarman Sundara Chola Pandyan, the son of Rajendra Chola I (study of the inscriptions that remain here might confirm the fact). While he was the viceroy of Madurai, his daughter is said to have been afflicted with a chronic skin ailment. Treatment by the physicians from far and wide did not yield any results. The prince, a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva, is said to have sought his divine intervention to cure the young girl.

One day, a Nampoothiri visited the Prince, and asked him to take his daughter around the Pandya Kingdom. He was asked to stop at a tank where elephants would be found circumambulating it, and bathe the young girl in its waters, after which her chronic ailment would be cured. The Prince did as he was instructed. When he reached the place that is today called Karuvelan kulam, he found elephants circling a tank of water. His daughter bathed in its waters, and was immediately cured of her chronic skin ailment.

Wanting to show his gratitude, he built this temple. The Lord is named after Sundara Pandya and also because he helped the young girl regain her beauty (Soundaryam) he is called Soundara Pandiswara. A tower was built by Sundara Pandya in the temple tank where the young girl bathed and got rid of her disease.

The place came to be known as Kari Valam Kulam (the pond that was circumambulated by elephants). Over time it has come to be known as Karuvelam Kulam.

To date, Lord Soundara Pandiswara is being worshipped by people suffering from skin ailments and they come back to offer gratitude once they are cured of their ailments.

Lord Soundara Pandiswara!

That is not it. The temple has beautiful mandapas both before the sanctum sanctorum and also before the Nataraja shrine. These mandapas have moving and musical pillars which are a delight to watch.

A demo of the rotating pillars at the Soundara Pandiswara Temple

Nataraja at Soundara Pandeeswara Temple:

We were told that the Nataraja at this temple was one of the oldest in the region and said to have been made by the same person who made the Chidambaram Nataraja. While this is to be verified by experts, there is absolutely no doubt that the Nataraja looks magnificient.

The Nataraja at Soundara Pandiswara Temple Karuvelan Kulam

We were told that the temple now gets grants from the Thiruvananthapuram royal family and hence is able to maintain itself well. As we went around the temple, each of the icons we saw delighted us. There were a number of shrines, all spotlessly clean.

Dakshinamurthy at Soundara Pandiswara Temple

We finally reached the Koothambalam, the place where the ten day Arudhra festival happens in the month of Margazhi every year. Starting with the flag hoisting on the day of Sadhayam star, it ends on Thiruvadhirai, the day of Arudhra Darisanam, the day that celebrates the cosmic dance of Lord Shiva in Tamilnadu, and is commemorated as the birthday of Lord Shiva in Kerala.

The Goddess is named Gomathi Ambal as in many temples in this region and emanates compassion and grace in a separate shrine.

Goddess Gomathi Ambal at Soundara Pandiswara Temple

Aalayam Kanden had earlier focussed an article on Parama Kalyani, the Goddess of fertility and child birth in this region in the article on Vanniyappar Temple at Alwarkurichi. (The article can be accessed here.) Goddess Parama Kalyani is also found on the pillars of the Soundara Pandiswarar Temple and is worshipped by those who yearn for child birth and pregnant ladies who seek safe delivery.

Goddess Parama Kalyani

We had seen the beauty of wood and stone earlier and now it was the turn to see beauty in colours. The whole Kootambalam is painted with murals of different Gods and Goddesses. It is sad that most of them have faded and it is difficult to even identify the figures in some of them. However, it is heartening to note that the walls have not been painted over or redone in gaudy acrylic colours.

A mural of Sankara Narayana - the Sankara and Narayana differentiated
by the Green and white colours at Soundara Pandiswara Temple

A complete wall is devoted to Nataraja as he performs the cosmic dance surrounded by Goddess Sivakami, Pathanjali, Vyagrapadha and Manickavasagar.

Mural of Nataraja at the Koothambalam of Soundara Pandiswara Temple

The Nataraja is placed in a beautiful wooden Mandapa during the Arudhra Festival and is taken out on procession on the Arudhra Darisanam day. Thousands flock here to witness the dancing God wearing splendid white on the 7th day of the festival and then again on the Thiruvadhirai day.

Nataraja Mandapa at the Kootambalam of Soundara Pandiswara Temple

It is interesting to note that each pillar in the wooden mandapa has the idols of Pathanjali, Vyagrapadha, Gnanasambandhar, and Karaikal Ammaiyar in it.

The temple has been last consecrated in 1944. At this time, several stones have been removed and relaid and we find inscriptions both of Rajendra Chola I as well as Jatavarman Sundara Chola Pandya and others at odd locations. A study of these would clealy help in knowing more about this wonderful temple.

Inscriptions laid on the floor at the time of renovation

Going back to where I started, although we had visited this temple several months ago, and had been amazed at its beauty, I never got around to writing about it. It so happened that when I was thinking of what article should come up as the 100th post on Aalayam Kanden, that I remembered the Nataraja and the Arudhra Darisanam festival at this temple, and the article comes to you on Arudhra Darisanam Day through His divine intervention. Is it not true then that "Avaninri Oranuvum Asaiyaadhu" (Even an atom cannot move without God)

How to get here:

The temple is about 37 kms from Tirunelveli. One can reach here via Kalakkad or Seramadevi. Google Map Coordinates: 8.530669, 77.564083

Temple Timings:

Morning : 6.30 am - 10 am
Evening : 5.00 pm - 7 pm

Contact Details:

Thavamani Bhattar : 99447 35288
Nellainayagam : 99437 58928
Nambi Krishnan : 94864 83033

The Kodi Kodutha Nathar Temple

Oru Kodi - is not just a number (denotes one crore in Tamil) or the prize money in a popular game show. It is also the name of a non-descript village about 7 kms from Villupuram. How did this village come to be known as Oru Kodi? and what is so special about it?

It is believed that one crore saints (oru kodi siddhars) got together to perform a mega penance and created a Shiva linga for this purpose. They installed the linga in the middle of the forest, put all their manuscripts and other invaluable treasures before him and sealed up the temple. An opening of the size of a brick stacked vertically was made in the wall through which the Lord could be worshiped.

The hole in the wall before the Nandi through which the Lord is worshipped at Oru Kodi

Several centuries passed. The place where the Siddhars congregated came to be known as Oru Kodi. Those who were destined to worship the Lord were blessed with great wealth and prosperity and the Lord came to be known as Kodi Kodutha Nathar (The God who gave crores).

As time went by, the Kings who were blessed with abundant wealth by worshipping the Lord wanted to expand and improve the temple. Shrines were added for Lord Ganesha, Dakshinamurthy, Chandikeswara and Goddess Abirami. Around the fifteenth century, the temple was opened up to include the Goddess Shrine, and provide access to worship the Lord like a normal temple.

Chandikeswara at Oru Kodi Temple

It was then that the huge amount of manuscripts were discovered within the sealed walls of the temple. The golden treasures are said to have disappeared miraculously from within the confines of the temple into the well outside of it. People say that even a few years earlier, when a stone was thrown into the well, a sound similar to that of a stone hitting metal was heard.

The well has subsequently been renovated. There is still water in the well.

The stone well supposedly containing the treasure now having been reconstructed.

The Goddess came to be known as Yedu Paditha Nayaki (the Goddess who read the manuscripts). The villagers say that the manuscripts contained very rare medical combinations and cures. No one knows what happened to them though - they might have been stolen or taken away by those who had the ability to read them.

The view of Goddess Olai Paditha Nayaki from the entrance

Even though the temple has been opened up, people prefer to worship the Lord through the opening in the wall as recommended by the Siddhars and use the entrance to worship the Goddess from outside.

Although the opening is very small that you almost have to view the Lord with one eye, it is surprising how one is able to get a very clear view of the sanctum sanctorum and the deity inside.

A view of Lord Kodi Kodutha Nathar through the opening in the wall.

To me, the vision was almost like a Mukha Lingam. I could actually see a forehead, eyes and nose on the Lingam. I moved back thinking it was my imagination. But in a few minutes, my mother-in-law said the same thing to me. It was indeed a very divine experience.

Today, the Lord who gave crores to several devotees is in a very pitiable environment. The shrines are all cracking up and Mr Singaram,who is the committed caretaker of the temple, is patching them up with concrete or constructing new ones as and when a stray visitor comes along and donates some money.

Lord Ganesha has been moved from the beautiful shrine on the right to the concrete
shrine on the left

Lord Ganesha has been moved from his beautiful habitat into a concrete shrine that has been constructed recently while Lord Dhakshinamurthy's shrine has been patched up.

Lord Dhakshinamurthy at Oru Kodi

The area inside the temple is quite pathetic. Reeking of bat excreta and dampness due to minimal use, the walls are stripped of cover. The wall along the Goddess's shrine has been recently plastered.

The interior of the temple at Oru Kodi.

Apart from these deities, there are other old icons that are strewn around the temple. Some of them are really old and similar to the ones seen at Marangiyur in the same district. The article on Marangiyur can be accessed here.

Icons at Oru Kodi

It was difficult to photograph these idols in the fading light. Clearly there were a Durga/Kotravai and an idol quite similar to the one found in Marangiyur (probably of the same period - Kalabhras?) and also an idol of that of Mhudevi or Jyeshta Devi.

Jyeshta Devi at Oru Kodi

Clearly these icons talk about the ancient nature of this temple. The temple is desperately looking for funds for its upkeep and maintenance as well as for renovation. At the moment as I had mentioned the caretaker is building/repairing in an adhoc fashion depends on the funds he receives here and there. If there is a focused initiative to renovate using the existing materials or traditional methods of construction, the temple would be restored to its lost glory and Kodi Kodutha Nathar can give Kodis to many many more devotees.

The crumbling beauty at Oru Kodi

How to get here:

On the Villupuram - Mambalapattu - Thirukoilur route (State Highway 7) , there is a village called Thogaipadi at about five kilometres from Villupuram. Take left at a board which reads Kanai. You will come to the Venkatesapuram Railway Gate. Oru Kodi is less than 2 kms from here. The Perumbakkam Perumal temple is quite close to this temple.

Google map Coordinates: 11.9267919, 79.4389612

Contact Details : Mr Singaram through Mr Karthikeyan - 94437 92233

Temple Timings : The deity can be worshipped through the day through the opening in the wall. The caretaker is also available through the day at the temple.

The crumbling temple of Oru Kodi

Thiruninravur Eri Katha Ramar Temple

The mention of Thiruninravur immediately brings to mind the magnificent Bhakthavatsala Perumal temple and the divine Hridayaleeswarar Temple. (The Articles on Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple and Hridayaleeswarar Temple on Aalayam Kanden can be accessed by clicking the links).

But equally if not more enchanting is the Eri Katha Ramar Temple that is tucked away in a lane opposite to the Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple. The temple is practically unknown to the tourists who flock the two other temples. But for the locals who show this temple some love and the discerning traveller who takes time out to check for other interesting sites enroute, this temple is practically empty.

There is no signage either outside or in the temple. Also there is no gopuram or large vimanam to draw attention. But when one takes the effort to enter, they are sure to be awestruck in many ways than one.

History of the temple:

This temple is said to be older than the Bhakthavatsala Perumal temple. It is found on the banks of the Thirunindravur Lake (Thiruninravur Eri) originally known as Varuna Pushkarni. It is believed that this lake was flooded in a storm and the bunds were in the verge of breaking when the villagers prayed to Lord Rama. Lord Rama is said to have created a fence of arrows around the lake that prevented it from breaking whereby the village was saved. The villagers showed their gratitude by building a temple on the banks of the lake for Lord Rama.

Varuna Pushkarni at Eri Katha Ramar Temple Thiruninravur

The Purshkarni is right behind the temple and one look at its massive expanse gives an idea of what would have been the damage if the bund had been breached. Even a couple of years ago, they say,that the Pushkarni used to be full of water and the annual Theerthavari used to be conducted on Panguni Sravanam.

The massive expanse of the Varuna Pushkarni

Apart from this, the annual Brahmotsavam and Rama Navami festivals are celebrated with a lot of festivity.

One of the noteworthy episodes connected with the temple is associated with the birth of Mudaliyandan a disciple and associate of Saint Ramanuja. Saint Ramanuja's sister Nachiyarammal and her husband Vathoola Kula Thilaka Sri Anantha Narayana Dikshithar who stayed in the nearby Nazarathpettai were on a pilgrimage to Tirumala to worship Lord Venkateswara to seek the boon of childbirth. As night fell, they rested at the Eri Katha Ramar temple at Thiruninravur.

During the night, Lord Rama is said to have appeared in the dream of Sri Anantha Narayana Dikshithar promising that a son who was an amsam of Lord Rama would be born to them. When the son was born, they named him Dasarathi, after Sri Rama. Dasarathi became a disciple, devotee and associate of his maternal uncle, Sri Ramanuja and since his demeanor was such as Vishwaksena, (Senai Mudhalvar), he came to be known as Mudaliyandan.

The temple:

On entering the temple, the first shrine is that of Anjaneya as usual. Just outside the Anjaneya shrine, is a stone pillar with Sanku Chakra and the image of Anjaneya which seems to be from the original temple.

Hanuman Shrine at the Eri Katha Ramar Temple, Thiruninravur

The stone pillars with images depicting various Avatars of Lord Vishnu have been poorly plastered with concrete.

Kalki Avatar?

In the Artha Mandapa, is a very unique depiction of Lord Anjaneya. Carrying Rama and Lakshmana on his shoulders, with the demoness Lankini under his foot, carrying a mace and shield in his arms, this very unique idol of Sri Anjaneya is said to be found only in Naimisaranyam apart from here.

Lord Hanuman carrying Rama and Lakshmana on his shoulders
with Lankini under his foot

One is able to go around the idol and obtain the darshan of the feet of Lord Rama and Lakshmana too.

Padha Darisanam of Sri Rama and Lakshmana

We are now ready to witness the most awesome of all sights. The more than eight feet tall Kothandarama, with two arms, holding bow and arrow, flanked by the weaponless Lakshmana to his left, whose right hand is held in such a way as if he was holding a horizontal bow, and the gracious Sita Devi holding a Lotus in her hand.

The sanctum Sanctorum - just to give the size of the Lord against humans!

No picture can do justice to the beauty of the Lord within the sanctum sanctorum, let alone a poor mobile phone picture! The beauty of this Rama, has to be seen to be enjoyed! It is also interesting to note that these images are not made of stone, but of stucco, which probably is yet another reason that they look so captivating!

The magnificent Eri Katha Rama at Thiruninravur

At the moment, the temple is in need of patronage, especially rice for aradhanam and oil and ghee for lamps. Monetary support is also most welcome.

How to get here:

Thiruninravur is about 32 kms from Chennai and can be accessed by road, bus or suburban train. The temple is few feet away from the Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple.

Temple timings:

Morning - 8.30 - 11.30 am

Evening - 5.30-7 pm

Shri Narayana Bhattar who is the Bhattacharyar at the temple is currently unwell. Therefore, Shri Venugopal Bhattar who is taking care of the Anjaneyar Sannadhi at Bhakthavatsala Perumal temple is also taking care of this temple. So in case you find the temple closed, you may reach out to him at the Anjaneyar sannadhi or at his house on Car street.

Contact Details:

Venugopal Bhattar - 78457 85715/ 98408 37689

If you happen to be in Thiruninravur, please take time to visit the Eri Katha Ramar Temple too!

The Sita Gufa at Panchavati (Photo Courtesy: Sita Gufa Trust)

Panchavati is situated on the banks of the River Godavari, in Nashik, Maharashtra. It is believed that Rama during his period of exile, had built a hermitage within the forest of Dandakaranya, close to a cluster of five banyan trees. Banyan trees are known as "Vat Vriksh"in Marathi and since there were five Vat Vriksh there, the place came to be known as Panchavati.

Even today, Panchavati bears a lot of sights and scenes that are reminiscent of the times of Ramayana. There are a number of places that one can visit in Panchavati, mostly by foot, or auto-rickshaws. People prefer to walk through the streets of Panchavati, for two reasons - one, it is easier to cover the different temples that are close to one another and more importantly, since it is the land that Rama walked on, people feel it is more appropriate to walk rather than take a vehicle. Those who find it difficult to walk can hire autorickshaws.

The moment you enter the parking near Ramakund, the place where the three rivers, Aruna, Varuna and Godavari converge, and where Rama is believed to have performed the last rites of his father, Dasaratha,
you are surrounded by tourist guides. Hiring a guide helps you to quickly move from shrine to shrine by foot. They normally charge around Rs.200/-

Ramakund in Panchavati

There are a number of temples like the Kapaleswar Shiva temple, where Brahma occupies the place where Nandi is usually found, the Kala Ram and Gora Ram Mandirs, Godavari Matha Mandir, Hanuman and Saibaba Temples, Karthikeya Temple etc. But the most significant and probably the one with the best vibration is the Sita Gufa.

The Banyan (Vat) Trees outside the cave (Photo Courtesy: Holy Darshan - Nashik)

Unfortunately photography is not permitted inside the cave complex and hence I had to leave my camera in the car and only use my mobile and pictures from the temple, so apologies for the poor quality of pictures.

The cave has a queuing area and a hall inside where books and photographs of the idols in the cave are sold. The queuing area also has signage which say that anyone suffering from TB, Asthma or other respiratory diseases should not attempt to go down the cave.

The cave has a low entrance - say about four feet and one has to really stoop to go down the first level. It further reduces as the level goes down deep into the cave.

The entrance to the Sita Gufa

One has to either stoop fully or sit and move down. At the third and lowest level, are the idols of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana. This is said to be the place where Lakshmana had asked Sita to stay while he went looking for his brother Rama, who had been cunningly led away by Maricha, in the form of a golden deer.

Sita sees Maricha in the form of a golden deer and asks Rama to catch it for her

There is a sense of tranquility that prevails inside the cave. The atmosphere is cool and one cannot draw their eyes away from the serene idols in front of them. There is also a wooden Paduka here (claimed to be Rama Paduka from his time at Panchavati) which the priest allows one to touch and worship.

The idols of Ram, Sita and Lakshmana as found in the Sita Gufa (Photo
courtesy: Sita Gufa)

The way out from the cave also has two further levels, where one has to stoop and move forward. On the first level, one can find the Shivalinga said to have been worshipped by Sita. The vibration here is excellent and on a quiet, less crowded day, one can even sit down for a few minutes and meditate in front of the magnificient Shiva.

Shiva Linga worshipped by Sita Devi, inside the Gufa (Photo Courtesy: Holy Darshan - Nashik)

There is a third level higher than the second. This is where Sita Devi is said to have ventured in order to provide food to Ravana, who had come in the guise of a hermit and it is from here that Ravana had abducted Sita. There is a Koorma Peetam at the place from where Ravana is said to have lifted her up and carried her away.

Ravana appearing as a hermit and Sita coming out to give him food

Across the road from the Sita Gufa is the path through which Maricha is said to have led Rama forty miles into the forest. This place has been converted into a mini museum with idols depicting different scenes from Ramayana pertaining to the Aranya Kandam. An entrance fee of Re.1 is charged to visit this museum.

Rama and Lakshmana meeting an wounded Jatayu who tells them that Ravana had carried Sita away

A few feet away from the Sita Gufa is a chariot that is claimed to be the Jatayu Vimana in which Jatayu had tried to intercept Ravana while he was carrying away Sita. This vimana is used during the Rama Navami celebrations to depict the Apaharan of Sita.

Jatayu Vimana

About four kms away from Sita Gufa, is a place called Tapovan, which is supposed to be where Lakshmana cut off Surpanaka's nose, thereby leading to the abduction of Sita. A number of autorickshaws ply to Tapovan from Panchavati and pilgrims also visit there to complete their tour of Panchavati.

Lakshmana cutting Surpanaka's nose

If you happen to be in this part of the world, do not miss visiting Panchavati and Sita Gufa! Happy Ram Navami wishes to one and all!

The Tripurantakeswara Swamy Temple, Thiruvirkoovam

The name Cooum to any Chennai dweller would be synonymous with a nauseating cesspool through which all the wastes of the city are carried into the Bay of Bengal. However, Cooum many hundreds, well, even thousand years ago, was a holy river, probably more holy, that the river Ganges itself !

It might come as a surprise to you that the river Cooum is said to have sprung forth from the bow of Lord Shiva himself, and has an entire Puranam dedicated to it. The Koova Puranam is found in the Skanda Purana under the Sanathkumara Samhita within Kalika Kand. This Purana has been translated into Tamil by Thuraimangalam Sri Sivaprakasa Swamigal.

Tripura Samhara: There are several tales related to the Tripura Samhara and temples associated with it . Tarakaksha, Kamalaksha and Vidyunmali, were three Asuras who, through the boon received from Lord Brahma, moved about in their aerial cities made of precious metals and tortured the humans and Devas alike. The Devas appealed to Lord Shiva who set out to strike them down with a single arrow. With the earth as chariot, and the Sun and Moon as wheels, Lord Brahma as the charioteer, Mount Meru as the bow, the serpent Vasuki as the string, and Lord Vishnu as the arrow, the Lord set out for the Samhara.

In his haste, he forgot to worship Lord Ganesha. It is a requirement to worship Lord Ganesha before the beginning of any act and Lord Shiva cannot be exempted because he was Ganesha's father!! If Gods do not follow the rules, who will? In order to establish the protocol, Lord Ganesha looked up and this broke the bearing of the chariot. The place where this is said to have happened is called Achu (Bearing)+Iru (break) pakkam - Achirupakkam. You can read the articles related to Tripura Samhara at Achirupakkam and Eithanoor on Aalayam Kanden by clicking on the link embedded.

Once the bearing was broken, the chariot lost control and the axle fell at Koovam. Lord Shiva is said to have stood up and gained his balance by placing his bow on the ground. Water sprang from the point where the bow hit the ground, and flowed to anoint the holy feet of Lord Shiva. This water then gushed forth as a river and came to be known as Koovam (which is an adaptation of the word Koovaram which means axle and/or Koobam which means water source.

A temple was made at the place where the Lord stood, very close to the source of the river Koovam, and the Lord came to be called Thiruvirkolanathar (The Lord who stood with the bow) and the place came to be known as Thiruvirkolam. Today it is generally referred to as Koovam.

The crystal clear temple tank at Thiruvirkoovam

The expanse of Koovam: According to Koovapurana, Koovam was a large city that had seventeen villages annexed to it. They were Manavur, Pagasala, Pazhayanur, Kondagacheri, Kumaracheri, Irulanjeri, Pillayarkuppam, Thozhudhavur, Pudhumavilangai, Pinjivakkam, Mappedu, Sivankudal, Thirupasur, Thandalam, Irukovai, Selai and Pungathur. Other than Irukovai, all other villages are still found around Koovam with the same name and have ancient temples located in them.

Nandi at Thiruvirkoovam temple

The tale of Dharmaseelan: In Koovam, there lived a brahmin called Dharmaseelan. He and his wife were staunch devotees of Lord Thripurantaka and took immense pleasure in feeding the Sivacharyas who came to their doorstep. Over time, Dharmaseelan had spent all his earnings, feeding the Sivacharyas and had to resort to selling all that he had in order to continue to do so. At one point, he sold even his wife's mangalsutra when he had nothing else worth selling. Once the money received out of the sale was spent, Dharmaseelan and his wife had absolutely nothing, to even feed themselves.

For eight days, they did not have a morsel of food to eat. They still walked weakly to the temple to worship Lord Thripurantaka and looked out for Sivacharyas. On the nineth day, a Sivacharya walked up to the doorstep of Dharmaseelan, asking for food. Dharmaseelan did not know what to do. He ran through the streets of Koovam, seeking alms and was able to get two measures of rice. He ran back home, asking his wife to make porridge with the rice.

The Sivacharya drank the porridge to his heart's content. After he left, Dharmaseelan and his wife sat down to drink the remaining porridge. At that moment, there was another Sivacharya at the door. Dharmaseelan stood up to receive the mendicant, but due to hunger and fatigue, fell down. His wife cried at his plight. Dharmaseelan soon dragged himself up, and gave the remaining porridge to the visitor. At that moment, Lord Thripuranthaka appeared before them, and told them that every day a pot full of rice will appear in his shrine for use by Dharmaseelan for his noble deeds.

A telugu inscription near the temple tank

Inscriptions: A number of rulers have left their inscriptions at the temple. During the rule of the Cholas, Koovam was known as Madurantakanallur and subsequently as Tyagasamudranallur. An inscription of Rajendra II, 1057 AD, speaks about sale of land for developing a feeder canal to the Koovam tank, which had then been called Tribhuvanamadevi Pereri. An inscription of Kulothunga I - 1112 AD speaks about the lifting of fishing and paddy taxes to fund the repair of the Tribhuvanamadevi Pereri. There have been grants provided by Rajaraja II, Vijayaganda Gopala Deva and Konerinmaikondan for conducting festivals at the temple.

About the temple: The temple is one of the Devara Padal Petra Sthalams having been sung by Thirugnanasambandar in the 7th century.

Theenda Thirumeni:Lord Tripurantakeswara is not touched by anyone, even the priests during daily worship. A small stick is used to adorn the Lord with flowers that are brought from the Nandavanams at Pinjivakkam. Only the flowers from the Nandavanams are used for adorning the Lord and flowers brought from outside are not used on him. The Linga is a Swayambu and the exterior becomes white to denote abundant rains and red to warn people of failed rains in a year. Water for abhishekam of the avudaiyaar is brought from a tank two kilometres away from the temple called Abhisheka Kuzhi.

The Lord appears as Thiruvirkolanathar holding a bow during the annual Brahmotsavam in the tamil month of Chithirai.

Thiruvirkolanathar with Tharakaksha and Vidyunmali as Dwarapalakas

The Lord is said to have performed the Raksha Thandav here to pacify Goddess Kali after the Urthuva Thandav at Thiruvalangadu. There is a seperate shrine for Kali a few metres away from the temple where she is called Tharka Matha.

The Lord performing the Raksha Thandav.

Achirutha Vinayagar:

The Ganesha who broke the axle of Lord Shiva's chariot is found in a separate shrine in the temple. The temple tank is called Achirutha Keni. Since the water rose and washed the feet of the Lord there are no frogs or fish ever in this temple tank. Worshipping the Achirutha Vinayagar before starting any new venture, is supposed to bring all success.

Achirutha Vinayagar

Goddess Tripurantha Nayaki:

Goddess Tripurantha Nayaki is found in a separate shrine to the right of the Lord. Her shrine has a vimana which is shaped like a mini gopuram. Her position is said to be that of Kalyana Kolam and she grants prayers of suitable marriage alliances.

Goddess Tripurantaka Nayaki with the Srichakram installed in front of her

The temple has been renovated and is maintained well. Mr Manivasagam, President of the Naalvar Narpani Manram is eager to receive visitors and goes out of the way to make their pilgrimage fruitful. The oduthuvamurthigal at the temple, an engineer by profession renders the Gnanasambandar Thevaram so soulfully.

With Mr Manivasagam and the Odhuvamurthigal

How to reach here:

If proceeding from Chennai, take the right at Empee Distilleries near Sriperumbudur. This road is Arakkonam Road. The road is not very well maintained and hence vehicles can only progress slowly.

Google Map Coordinates : 13.021152, 79.826926

Temple Timings:

6-12 noon, 5-7 pm

Contact Details:

Sri. Manivasagam - 94432 53325

The Deivanayakeswarar Temple at Elumiyankottur

There are temples to fulfill every kind of prayer - good health, marriage, childbirth, education, dosha nivarthi one can go on and on. Likewise, did you know there is a temple where prayers for everlasting beauty are fulfilled, and that too along the river Cooum?

Surprised? Well, that is a mandatory element with all temples along the Cooum!

History of the temple:

When Lord Ganesha broke the axle of Lord Shiva's chariot, for not having worshipped him before starting out on Tripura Samhara (Read the article about the Tripurantakeswara Temple at Cooum here to know the full story), he lost balance and fell from the chariot and stood up with the support of his bow. While doing so, a garland of golden shower flowers (Konrai Maalai) fell some distance away and turned into a swayambu lingam. As the Lord had set out to save the Devas from the three Asuras - Tarakaksha, Kamalaksha and Vidyunmali, the deity came to be known as Deivanayakeswara.

At this time, the three apsaras, Rambha, Menaka and Urvashi, celestial dancers at the court of Indra, were worried about their fading beauty. Known to be the epitome of beauty, the apsaras were worried about this and wanted to regain their youth and splendor. They approached Deva Guru Brihaspati, who advised them to go to the Earth and worship Lord Deivanayakeswara.

Entrance of the Deivanayakeswara Swamy Temple

So a total of eight apsaras, led by Rambha, came to the banks of the river Cooum to find Lord Deiva Nayakeswara. Rambha created a tank in front of him, the apsaras bathed in it and worshipped him with lotus and Jasmine flowers. They also installed another Shivalingam close by with sixteen stripes on the Baana to symbolise their visit. After their prayers, they found themselves feeling younger, radiant and more beautiful. They were delighted and after offering their gratitude, returned to their celestial abode. The tank created by Rambha stands to this day, and is called Rambha Theertham. The other names are Malligai Theertham Thamarai Theertham, Chandra Theertham, Boothagana Theertham, and Naga Theertham.

The Shiva lingam installed by Rambha came to be known as Arambeswarar and the place came to be called Arambayankottur. Over time, this changed to Ilambayankottur and today it is called Elumiyankottur.

Gnanasambandar and Lord Deivanayakeswarar:

Saint Gnanasambandar has sung a thevaram hymn in praise of Lord Tripurantakeswara at Koovam. When he was passing through Elumiyankottur, Lord Shiva wanted him to sing about him there as well. So he appeared before him as an old man, and a child requesting him to sing Lord Deivanayakeswara. However, Gnanasambandar could not find the location of the Lord through the forest of Jasmine trees, and finally the Lord appeared as a wild bull driving him into the temple. Gnanasambandar in his hymn at the Deivanayakeswara Temple, says worshipping him would make people eternally beautiful and enable them to attain mukthi without any further births.

About the temple:

The Veda Pada Sala inside the temple

There is no gopuram at the entrance. In fact the small wicket gate close to the Vedha Pada Salai is used for entry and exit. There is a vedha pada salai here where there are a number of youth who are learning the vedas. Other than the deities, there is no signs to show that the temple is many thousands of years old. This temple has been mentioned in the Koova Puranam.

Lord Deivanayakeswarar similar to Lord Tripurantakeswara is considered "Theenda Thirumeni". The priests do not touch him or perform abhishekam. Flowers are adorned using a small stick.
In the year 1983, there is said to have been heavy rains where lightning struck on the village. The Lord took it upon himself and other than his vimana, nothing else was damaged in the village. The villagers say, but for the grace of the Lord, major damage would have been caused by the magnitude of the lightning.

Sun's rays fall directly on the Lord who appears like a golden shower flower from 2-7 April and 5-11 September each year.

The Goddess is called Kanakagujambigai and Kodendhumulaiyammai. She faces South. A Srichakram installed by Kanchi Mahaperiyava sits at her golden feet.

Goddess Kanakagujambigai at Elumiyankottur

Yoga Dakshinamurthy:

Another speciality of the temple is the Yoga Dakshinamurthy found at the Goshtam. With his eyes closed and right hands forming the Chin Mudra, and placed on the Brahma knot of the Yagnopaveetham, holding a Trishul and Akka Maalai in the top hands, he is found in a very unique posture. On special days, like Guru Peyarchi, several hundreds of devotees come here to pray to Yoga Dakshinamurthy.

Yoga Dakshinamurthy at Elumiyankottur

The Arambeshwara with his sixteen sides is found to the South East of the temple, waiting to grant the sixteen boons of prosperity to his devotees.

Inscriptions at the temple:

An inscription belonging to the time of chola king Rajadhiraja II - 1175 AD mentions that this temple was converted from a brick temple to a stone temple by Pandari Sivacharanaalayan alias Sivapadhasekara Muvendavelan.

An inscription from the time of Kulothunga III refers to Ilambayankottur as Cholavichchadira Chaturvedi Mangalam in Kanrur Nadu.

An inscription of Vijayagandagopaladeva states that he gave the village of Kaliyanallur in Tiruvelurnadu, as gift to the temple.

There are also inscriptions of the pandya king Konerinmaikondan about grants given to the temple. These inscriptions have been recorded but unfortunately are not found in the modernized temple today.

However modern, it might have have become, the temple is still charming and has a very good vibration. Those visiting the temple at Koovam, can take a little bit of effort to visit Elumiyankottur as well. Please remember to call the Gurukkal before you do, so that you are not disappointed to find a closed temple.

How to get here:

If going from Chennai turn right at the Empee Distilleries after Sriperumbudur. Take the Arakonam road upto Koovam. Elumiyankottur is about four kms from there. Google Coordinates: 13.0018681, 79.67114881

Temple Timings:

The temple is open only in the mornings around 10 am. One has to call the Gurukkal in advance to ensure his availability.

Contact Details:

Sivam Gurukkal - 96000 43000

The Thengangapureeswara Temple at Chinnanarimedu

Ten skin problems....no tension! claims a soap commercial. Come summer, there are a range of problems that arise due to sudden increase in temperature, like rashes, prickly heat, chicken pox, dehydration and so on. Just like there are temples for various types of ailments, there is a temple that helps soothe heat related problems.

When I first heard about this temple from Mr Kaushik, one of the donors of Aalayam Kanden, I was extremely intrigued by what he told me. So when Aalayam Kanden published and released the Sthalapuranam of the Kailasanatha temple at Nellikuppam, we decided to visit the temple. Mr Kaushik and his friend had brought along some rice and dhal, as well as a new dhoti.

And off, we set on the Cuddalore - Thiruvandipuram Main Road (Thiruvaheendrapuram). At one point, there was nothing but wilderness around us. Kaushik explained that the place had come to be known as Narimedu because at one point in time, the entire dwellings around this area, had been destroyed during an invasion, and there were only foxes that roamed around here to feast on the human and animal remains. Even today there are only about eighty households in Chinna Narimedu and about 120 households in Periya Narimedu.

Our vehicle turned into a narrow lane among the bushes and the first thing that struck us was a huge, really huge temple tank. It is difficult to describe it as a tank, it was more like the remains of a stream. Today, it is like the environment in which it existed, totally wasted, with vegetation and litter.

A view of the Chinnanarimedu Temple tank

The vehicle was unable to go beyond a slight slope. So we got off and start walking. What used to be a large temple complex, is today dilapidated and uncared for. There is a yellow board, that looks recently painted,and out of place among the crumbling single shrine structure.

Kaushik and his friend led the way into the temple, calling out to the sole occupant. As we followed them, we found that in the darkness of the Artha Mandapa, there were two dogs and an old man in a loin cloth, lying close to each other.

The old man struggled to get up, while the dogs gazed at us cautiously. Kaushik and his friend helped the old man, whose vision was almost fully blocked by thick cataracts, up, and clothed him in the new dhoti. The old man stepped out into the midday sun, raising his hand to shield his eyes from the glare, and looked at us.

The way to the Thengangapureeswarar Temple, Chinna Narimedu

He was Kannan Swamigal, a man who gave up his family over fifty years ago, to care for Lord Shiva in Chinna Narimedu. He stays alone in the temple, eats when someone brings him something, cares for the Lord and the two dogs equally.

By now, Kannan Swamigal was refreshed after a drink of cold water that we had carried with us. He called me closer and says "Amma, go, go inside! See your Father! Light the lamp before him!"

My hands trembled as I cross the two dogs, still lying down in the Artha Mandapa, and stepped into the Sanctum Sanctorum. The gigantic Linga decorated with withered flowers and a very simple red dhoti sat there. Plastic carry bags with different things lay strewn along the sides. I rummaged through them, found wicks and a match box and lit a lamp that had turned sooty.

Lord Shiva in his humble dwelling with the Thengangapureeswarar Temple

After a few minutes in silent prayer, I stepped out. By then, Kaushik had offered the Puliyodharai and Curd rice we had received as prasadam from the Nellikuppam Kailasanatha Temple to Kannan Swamigal. He opened the box and emptied the Puliyodharai into a bowl and called his two dogs who obediently came out and started eating. "Curd Rice will not suit them", he says. "So I will eat it later".

I was amazed to see such a person, living all by himself, in a temple hardly visited by anyone, giving first priority to his dogs when someone offered food. This is how the Sivanadiyars of yore must have lived!!

On the wall hung a picture of him in better times, next to an inscription with a Trishul in it. Curious, I asked Kaushik about it and he told me that this temple had originally been constructed during the Pallava period, and this inscription had been the only one (14th Century - Abhimana Thunga Pallavarayar a.k.a Manril Kunikkum Peruman) that had been recovered intact from the ruins of the large temple complex and put away safely.

Kannan Swamigal with the Trishula Inscription

Clearly, a great temple at one time. So let us look back at the Sthalapuranam of Aranthanginallur - the original name of Narimedu.

After the Tripura Samhara at Trivadhigai, Lord Parvathi wanted Lord Shiva to calm his anger. She chose the Gedilam River that runs close to Thiruvadhigai to for them to bathe and relax. While doing so, Shiva released Ganga from his locks, and the stream that she flowed out as came to be called Thenganga. Several herbs that release heat, and cool the body grew on the banks of Thenganga. Goddess Parvathi worshipped Shiva here in the form of a Linga and soothed him with the pack of herbs and the cool waters of Thenganga.

Over time, the herbs encircled and covered the linga. Several centuries later, a ruler of Nadu Naadu was suffering from severe heat related boils and blisters. Any medication provided by his doctors did not cure him fully. His old minister told him about the herbs of Aranthanginallur. The king came with his doctors to look for them. When the king's men uprooted a bush of herbs, they found the Lord under it.

The Pracheena Aavudaiyaar

The delighted king built a temple for the Lord and worshipped him. He also dug a canal to bring the Thenganga water to the temple and called the Lord Thengangapureeswarar.Soon he was cured of his ailments. Hearing about this, several hundreds of people visited the Thengangapureeswarar, bathed in the holy waters of Thenganga, and were cured of their heat related ailments.

This place came to be known as Sanyasipettai as several rishis and saints came here to worship Thengangapureeswarar and stayed there to perform pujas and yagnas.

As mentioned earlier, the whole village seems to have been ruined during an invasion leaving very little of the past behind. The temple still has a Ganapathy, and Nandi. A volunteer have come forward to build a small dwelling for Kannan Swamigal and a few good hearted people of the Namachivayamoorthigal Aalaya Thirupani Kuzhu are taking all efforts to restore the temple to its last glory. After our visit, renovation initiatives have begun.

With a heavy heart, we reluctantly bid goodbye to Kannan Swamigal. At that point, he did something unexpected. He removed the new dhoti and thrust it in Kaushik's hand, saying "Take it away! People take away anything that is left behind here. I dont need this, I am happy with my loin cloth".

Shocked, I got into the car. Kannan Swamigal's voice continued to ring in my ears! "Amma, naan irukaradhukkula saamikku veedu kattidanum"(I want to build the house of the Lord before I die).

Kannan Swamigal bidding us goodbye

How to reach here:

Chinnna Narimedu is about 15 kms from Cuddalore and about 7 kms from Panruti. On the Cuddalore - Thiruvandhipuram Road, take a left at Palur. There is a bus stop and Murugan temple just before the turning.

Google Coordinates: 11.7760195, 79.6003888

Temple timings:

Kannan Swamigal stays here and one can visit at any time. Do remember to carry some eatables for him and the Bhairavas.

Contact Details:

Seervalarseer Namachivayamoorthigal Aalaya Thirupani Kuzhu, Puduchery

Mr Sekar, Puduchery - 98947 03148

Ms. Amudha Sarveswaran, Erode - 96009 20767

Singaandeeswara Temple at Thiruvur

Come summer, our hearts long for rains! Aalayam Kanden has the pleasure of bringing to you a Cooum riverside temple, rich in mythology and history, where Sage Rishyashringa has installed a Shivalinga for reducing drought and bringing rain and fertility to the area.

Sage Rishyashringa, (referred to as Kalaikottu Muni by Kambar in his Kamba Ramayana) the son of Sage Vibhandaka and Urvashi (there is another version which says that he was born out of a deer which had swallowed the semen of the sage released in water and hence had the face of a deer with horns) had mystical and magical powers. The place where he lived was blessed with abundant rainfall and fertility. Sage Vashista adviced King Dasaratha to perform the Putra Kameshti Yagna, through Sage Rishyashringa in order to be blessed with sons. On hearing this, the women of the assembly vowed to go and bring the Sage to Ayodhya. They met him at his hermitage and offered fruits and flowers and won his good will. After a few days, they invited him to go with them.

As the sage moved from the hermitage, the rain God followed him, showering good rains and pleasant weather as he went along. King Romapada, of Anga, whose kingdom was suffering from drought and famine, met the Rishi as he passed through his province, and invited him to stay there. He offered his daughter Shanta, (originally born to King Dasaratha and Kausalya and adopted by King Romapada, and his wife Vershini, who was the elder sister of Kausalya)'s hand in marriage to the Saint. The saint accepted the invitation and stayed at Anga Desa (today's Bihar and Jharkhand).

On hearing this, King Dasaratha went and met King Romapada and requested his help to bring Sage Rishyashringa to Ayodhya. The King agreed to help and with his humble request, Sage Rishyashringa proceeded to Ayodhya with his wife Shanta and performed the Putra Kameshti Yagna for twelve months, at the end of which a demon appeared with the Pinda which was shared between the three queens of Dasaratha, Kousalya, Kaikeyi and Sumithra, resulting in the birth of Rama, Bharata, Lakshmana and Shatrugana.

An image of Sage Rishyashringa performing the Putra Kamesthi Yagna from the
miniature panels at Nageswara Temple Kumbakonam.

For a complete article on Nageswara Temple miniatures on Aalayam Kanden, click here.

Sage Rishyashringa has installed Shiva lingas in different parts of the country, (Shringeri for example) for rains and fertility. It is sad to note, that one such temple, on the banks of the Cooum at Thiruvur remains lesser known.

The temple at Thiruvur, today known as Tirur, is said to have been built around the Shiva Linga installed by Sage Rishyashringa. Originally called Rishyashringeeswaram after the sage, today it is known as Uthpalambika samedha Sri Singaandeeswarar Temple. The temple has been recently renovated.

During the 13th Century, when the Chola Kingdom was on the decline, Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I went all the way upto Tirumala, capturing territories previously under the Cholas. This temple was converted into a stone structure during his rule in 1261 AD by a chieftain named Annamalai Udaiyar, the ruler of Venpaiyur.

At the entrance of the temple, there are two Adhikara Nandis belonging to recent times, holding deer and axe, signifying the deer symbolism throughout the temple.

Adhikara Nandi as Dwarapalakas outside the Tiruvur temple

There are also two inscription stones belonging to the Vijayanagara Period found outside the temple. One of them belong to the period of Saluva Thimmaiya Deva who has given a grant of coconut groves to the temple in memory of his predecessor Thippaiya Deva.

The other inscription belongs to Immadi Tirumala Nayaka, a general of Krishnadeva Raya, and speaks about lands and gold given to the temple to build a Madavilagam.

Throughout the temple, are various images of Sage Rishyashringa, reiterating the fact that he had installed the main deity.

Image of Rishyashringa on the Ganga-Kauvery Panels on either side of the entrance
at Tiruvur Singaandeeswara Temple

The ceiling is covered by an exquisite Ashtadikpalaka panel, with an image of Shastha (Ayyanar/ Sathanar) flanked by two fishes, as well as an image of a fish fighting a monitor lizard. The Fish fighting the monitor lizard, probably is to symbolise the victory of the Pandyas over the Cholas.

Ashtadikpalaka Panel showing the fish fighting the monitor lizard at Tiruvur
Singaandeeswara Temple

The temple is very quiet and the Lord Sringeeswara, today known as Singaandeeswara sits in solitude. If only people knew more about the temple and the Lord being the benefactor of good rain, we can expect a greater patronage.

A lot of history has been lost during renovation. Mr Soundara Rajan, who is taking care of the temple, told us that a secret tunnel had been discovered within the sanctum at the time of renovation. Most of the Goshta devathas have been lost, and are today replaced by miniature modern versions.

Lord Singaandeeswara at Tiruvur

The walls are lined with inscriptions ( a total of 12 inscriptions have been recorded at this temple) which today have been sadly painted over.

Inscriptions at the Tiruvur Temple

One such inscription speaks about grants given to the Kariyamanicka Perumal temple, which is on the opposite lane. A beautiful temple, built out of laterite stones, is currently being renovated. This temple, is almost on the banks of the Cooum river.

The beautiful Kariya Manicka Perumal Temple at Thiruvur

The Cooum river that runs by the Kariya Manicka Perumal Temple at Thiruvur

Inscriptions also mention grants given to the Ganesha shrine to light lamps in the 14th Century by Anukki Purushotama Bhattar Varadan. This Ganesha is found in a seperate shrine behind the temple.

Attaga Pillaiyar also called Athimuga Pillayar

We tried to look for the third temple called Osuramma temple that was mentioned in the inscriptions. The villagers directed us to a huge overgrowth of vegetation, stating that the temple must be somewhere under it. We tried navigating but could not get very close. If this temple is recovered, before it is too late, it would also be another symbol of the glorious past.

If you are travelling towards Tiruvallur, do stop by at this wonderful temple, that is so full of heritage and history, and pray for good rains!

An image of Sage Rishyashringa installing the Shiva linga at Thiruvur

How to reach here:

The temple is about 40 kms from Chennai. Google map Coordinates: 13.1028235, 79.9664227. I am unable to mark it as Google Map Maker has been unavailable for some time.

Temple Timings:

The priest is available between 5-8.30 am and 6-10 pm. The temple remains open till 12 pm in the morning though.

Contact Details:

Mr P Soundara Rajan - 044- 2762 0157, 99524 14369
Preferably call his landline, as the mobile network is shaky around this area.

Recently, I was invited by a friend to speak at a Story telling event, the topic of which was Stories in and around Harrington Road. I was trying to decide on what to speak about - should I talk about the Karukathamman and Semathamman temples on Harrington Road or should I speak about the School Road off McNichols Road, a small lane which houses four old temples in it? Then it struck me that I should speak about the unique feature of Harrington Road - the cluster of Saints' Samadhis/Ashrams on and around it.

Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar:

Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar Jeeva Samadhi

Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar was born in Teynampet in the year 1859. He developed spiritual seeking early in life, and through intense concentration and the grace of Lord Shiva, became self realised. He was a great poet who has sung innumerable hymns on Lord Kapaleeswara of Mylapore. The procession of the Lord would only move forward once the Navalar had completed his hymn and not before. This has been witnessed several times by devotees.

Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar was also a great spiritual orator and made discourses in various locations. When he had to travel out of Chennai on one such instance, he did not have the money to purchase a ticket and boarded the train without it. When confronted by the ticket checker, he explained the importance of his being there in the event the next day and requested to be allowed to travel. However, the ticket checker would have nothing of it. He made sure that the Navalar was offloaded from the train in the next station.

To his surprise, the train which was supposed to start in the next few minutes, would not do so. All efforts were made by the technicians to get the train moving, but it would not budge.

A couple of travellers identified the saint and ran up to explain to the ticket checker who he was and offered to pay for his ticket. Once this was done, the Navalar was allowed to board the compartment from where he had been unceremoniously offloaded. As soon as he sat down, the train chugged along smoothly as if nothing had happened.

Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar installed the Jaya Vinayagar at the place where the samadhi now stands in the year 1890. He appealed to the British Government for permission to construct his Jeeva Samadhi in the year 1929. A person is said to enter Jeeva Samadhi we he decides during his life time, on the day and time when he wishes to enter Samadhi and then he sits in the pit in meditation, and his disciples cover the pit and build a samadhi over it. Only great saints have so far been capable of entering samadhi on a predetermined time and date, while still being alive. Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar was one such highly evolved soul who on 29th October 1929, entered Jeeva Samadhi at the Jaya Vinayakar temple complex.

The samadhi is found on 6th Avenue, Harrington Road, on the lane opposite MCC School It is open between 6.30 - 9 am, and 5 - 8 pm. It is a delight to watch the abhishekam to the Samadhi at 8 am in the morning. The priest does the abhishekam with the care and attention that one would give to their new born.
This is one of the Samadhis where devotees are allowed to sit right next to the Adhisthanam and meditate. The vibrations are really strong here and facilitate intense concentration.

Even when the samadhi is closed, it is possible to worship Jaya Vinayakar from the alcove on the wall and take a look at the portrait of Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar.

Acknowledgement: Aathman Awareness Centre for information on the life of Mahaan Gangadhara Navalar

Nathamuni Swamigal Maha Samadhi: The Nathamuni Swamigal Maha Samadhi is found on Harrington Road, a few buildings away from the Semathamman Temple. When you enter from Poonamallee High Road, on the lane right next to Pachaiyappa's college, it is the last building on the 4th right. If you were to enter from the other end of the road, through the Choolaimedu bridge, then it would fall on your first left.

The Kambahareswarar Temple which houses the Nathamuni Swamigal Samadhi

Nothing much is known about the personal life of Nathamuni Swamigal, but for the fact that he had stayed in that spot probably a couple of hundred years ago, when it was just a grove of trees, worshipping Lord Shiva, whom he called Kambahareswara. Kamba refers to tremors or shivering. ( Bhookambam - tremors of the earth). Kambahareswara means the Lord who removes shivering. In Tamil, he is called Nadukkam Theertha Nathar.

A person is likely to shiver when he is excited, anxious, angry or unwell. Shivering is a response to emotions. The Lord, worshipped by Nathamuni Swamigal is said to aid one to overcome emotions. A truly liberated person, would be in a position to treat happiness and sorrow, excitement and disappointment alike, and the Lord is the one who facilitates a true seeker to reach that state of mind. The disciples of Nathamuni Swamigal have installed an idol of him in the Maha Samadhi complex.

Nathamuni Swamigal

The Maha Samadhi of Nathamuni Swamigal is found within the sanctum of Lord Kambahareswara, to the left. Apart from this and the idol of Nathamuni Swamigal, all other shrines in this temple are new and have been built over the last ten years. A shrine has also been added for Goddess Dharmasamvardhini apart from other shrines usually found in Shiva temples.

The Artha Mandapa is large, full of natural light and convenient to meditate. Here again, the vibrations are strong, and one can spend time in intense concentration, seeking spiritual development and sthitaprajna.

The temple is open between 7-10 am and 5.30-8.30 pm. Contact - Venkatesa Gurukkal - 87545 53578

Apart from these two saints, the Samadhi of Kazhi Siva Kannudaiya Vallal is also said to be in Chetpet although the exact location is yet to be revealed.

Kazhi Siva Kannudaya Vallal was a Saint who lived in the 15th Century (1380-1476 AD). He was a discipline of Guru Sambandar. He is believed to have been the first preceptor of the Suddha Sanmargam through his book Ozhuvil Odukkam. He was also the first person to have been referred to as Vallalar. Saint Ramalinga Adigal, popularly known as Vallalar, was inspired by the philosophies of Ozhuvil Odukkam and had the book published through his brother Sabapathy Mudaliar in 1851, the commentary for which was written by Chidambaram Swamigal, who installed Lord Muruga at Thiruporur temple.

Another noteworthy Saint whose Ashram is found in Chetpet is Pandrimalai Swamigal, a great devotee of Lord Muruga.

A cluster of Samadhis of great saints, is usually found on banks of holy rivers, the holy river in this case, being none other than our dear COOUM!

The Murugan temple at Pagasalai

There are a number of temples in Tamil Nadu where Lord Muruga is found alone, without his consorts Valli and Deivanai. Out of these temples, those in which he stands as Brahma Sastha are noteworthy. Lord Brahma had once become arrogant, that he was indeed the creator of the entire universe, and without him, the world would come to an end. Lord Muruga wanted to humble him and asked him the meaning of Pranava Mantra.
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Lord Brahma did not know the meaning. Lord Muruga imprisoned him in order to punish him, and took over the role of creation. He also acquired the symbols of Lord Brahma, namely, the Akshara Mala and the Kamandalu. This form of Lord Muruga is referred to as Brahma Sastha, where he is found with the Akshara Mala and Kamandalu in his rear arms and the right fore arm is shown as Abhaya Hastha and the left fore arm is placed on his waist.

There are a number of places such as Ayanavaram, Thiruvottriyur, Vayalanallur, Poondi and Manavur around Chennai City where Lord Muruga is found in the form of Brahma Sastha. By far, one of the most beautiful of them resides in Pagasalai, a small village between the Cooum and the Kusasthalai rivers. In fact, Pagasalai is closer to Kusasthalai (Kortalai River) than to Cooum, but it is significant to include Pagasalai in the list of Cooum sites, because in the past, Cooum comprised of eighteen Kottams or sub-divisions out of which Pagasalai was one.

Saint Arunagirinathar has sung three hymns on this temple. In them, he lists all the ailments that one could suffer from, thereby taking them to the graveyard, and seeks Lord Muruga's blessings to save him from all those and make him focus on the golden feet of the Lord. Truly, to this date, the Pagasalai Murugan is known to save his devotees from all kinds of ailments.

People suffering from diseases or their family members pray for their speedy recovery and light ghee lamps for forty eight days, using lotus wicks, within which period the patient's health condition improves. During our visit to the temple, stories about devotees poured from the villagers. Recently a seventy year old lady had come to light lamps for the health of her son. As she was weak and old and had to travel by suburban train to reach the temple every day, the priest and others at the temple, offered to light the lamps on her behalf asking her to pray in her house every day and come back on the forty eighth day. However, the old lady was adamant and kept coming every day.

After twenty days, she brought her son along with her, and both of them started weeping in front of Lord Muruga. Perplexed, the priest asked the old lady what had happened. She explained that those were tears of joy. Her son had had speech difficulties from birth, owing to which he had issues in finding a good job and getting married. The lady was worried about his future after her time and had vowed to light lamps to Lord Muruga. Wonder of wonders, her son's speech disorder vanished as if it had never been there, and he was able to speak normally like anyone else.

Similarly, there are a number of stories of patients on ventilators, where even doctors had given up hope, who had recovered and are leading normal lives, thanks to the grace of Pagasalai Murugan.

Lord Ganesha on the wall to the Sanctum Sanctorum

This temple has not just been worshipped by Saint Arunagirinathar, but also by Adi Shankara and Guru Raghavendra Swamy. The temple is found on the banks of the river Kusasthalai and is mentioned in Matsya Puranam, Koorma Puranam, Bhavishya Puranam, Linga Puranam and Markandeya Puranam. The Kusasthalai river is referred to as Dakshina Sivaganga Theertham and as Uttaravahini as it flows from South to North.

The image of Adi Shankara in one of the pillars in the temple

Any river flowing from South to North is said to be holier and benefit those who meditate on its banks seeking liberation or mukthi. Hence saints like Adi Shankara and Guru Raghavendra Swamy have worshipped at this temple. Guru Raghavendra Swamy spent fourteen years meditating at Kakkalur Anjaneya Swamy temple. The idol in this temple was installed by Saint Vyasaraja, the previous Avatara of Guru Raghavendra Swamy. During his life time, Saint Vyasaraja, has created and installed about 730 idols , out of which Kakkalur Anjaneya Swamy is one.

During this period, Raghavendra Swamy has also visited Pagasalai and worshipped Lord Muruga and Lord Shiva found in the form of a Maragathalingam (Emerald Shivalinga) with the name Thirumoolanathaswamy. The Shiva temple is right on the banks of the river. There is also a beautiful but completely dilapidated Adhikesava Perumal Temple in this village.

The image of Guru Raghavendra Swamy in one of the pillars

Lord Muruga at this temple has also been worshipped by Sage Agasthya, Lord Brahma, Chitragupta, Narada, and the nine planets as per the Puranas.

The temple has been recently consecrated and looks clean and beautiful. The original single granite shrine has been extended on both sides to form Mandapas and circumambulatory space. During the annual Brahmothsavam in the Tamil month of Maasi, (Feb-Mar) a special pooja happens here. The Sakthi Vel (spear) of Lord Muruga is worshipped by the devotees in this pooja, and they find that they are relieved from chronic problems in their life.

The Vel Mandapa in the temple where the Vel Pooja happens

Pathiri Ayya:

Lord Muruga in the form of Brahma Sastha - over 5.5 feet tall, looks majestic in the sanctum sanctorum. He is commonly known as Padhiri Ayya or Padhiriyar. There is an interesting legend behind this name. During the British Period, there was a collector who was travelling along the river. As he rested under the shade of the trees, he found the idol of Lord Muruga in the then, single shrine granite structure. In the form of Brahma Sastha, holding Akshara Mala and Kamandalam, he seemed from a distance, like a priest holding a Rosary to the British officer. So he wanted to take a closer look at the Padhiri.(word for Priest) Those with him thought it was not a good idea, as he may not be allowed access into a Hindu temple.

However, it is believed, that Lord Muruga, came in the form of a priest and took him into the temple that night. The Collector was overwhelmed . From then on, the Lord has came to be known as Pathiri Ayya.

Till date, during the Aadi Krithigai festival, a number of Christians join the Hindus in breaking coconuts thanking the "Pathiri" for fulfilling their prayers. The temple is an excellent example of communal harmony where people of both religions come together and offer their gratitude side by side.

There is a separate shrine for Saint Arunagirinathar. Along with him idols of the other Muruga devotees, namely, Saint Pamban Swamigal, Chidambaram Swamigal who installed the Murugan at Thiruporur, and Kumara Gurubarar. The priest at this temple was formerly working in the police department as Sub-Inspector. He visited the temple once and was immediately drawn towards the Lord. He has since left his position and has been serving as a priest in the temple over the last twenty years. He performs the poojas with a lot of care and devotion.

Procedure for lighting lamps to be rid of diseases:

Those who are desirous of being rid of diseases or a representative from the family, vows to light lamps with ghee and lotus wicks for forty eight days. If this is followed sincerely and with true devotion, the person's health improves within the time period. In case of those unable to come to the temple daily, the priest offers to light the lamps on their behalf. Once they are better, the devotees or their representatives come to the temple and perform 108 circumambulations or Anga Pradakshinams (rolling around the temple) to offer thanks.

How to reach here:

Pagasalai is in the Tiruvalangadu Taluk of Tiruvallur district, about 58 kms from Chennai. It is about 4 kms away from the Manavur railway station on the Chennai Arakkonam suburban train route, and a number of autos and share autos ply from the Manavur station to the temple.

Map Coordinates - 13.0669281, 79.78960249

Temple Timings:

Morning - 7.30- 11 am
Evening - 4.30 - 7 pm

Contact : Ganesh Gurukkal - 91765 29893

The old Brahmin woke up with a start. He had just witnessed a very divine dream. Goddess Kali had appeared in his dream, promised to come to Mangudi village on a specific day as a Pancha Bootha Swaroopini.

He shared this great news with his kith and kin and everybody in the agraharam were excited. They all gathered on the banks of the river Pandavai on the said day, with flowers and fruits, incense and camphor, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Goddess.

Morning turned to noon. There was absolutely no movement in the river. The villagers were anxious but stayed put. Evening turned to night. The crowd was slowly dispersing. But the Brahmin and those who believed his words stayed put. It was midnight and the dim lights were flickering. Not a leaf moved and the water seemed to have come to a standstill too.

The old brahmin and those with him peered into the darkness with weariness. The Brahmin had not lost hope. He knew for sure that the Goddess would come as promised. Suddenly, a divine fragrance wafted in. As if in a trance, the Brahmin stood up. "She is here, she has come", he murmured. He stepped forward into the water. Those with him, lit torches and got close to the water.

A gentle breeze wafted in, forming ripples in the water. In the light that shone on it, they could see an unburnt earthern pot, covered with Neem leaves moving gently towards them. The Brahmin ran towards it, with tears of joy, and hugged the pot close to him. "Amma, Maakali! You have come as promised!", he wept.

He raised the pot over his head, and carried it out of the water, chanting praises of Goddess Kali. The crowd followed him, singing and rejoicing. The old brahmin placed the pot in the raised platform in front of his house, and started worshipping Goddess Maakali.

The Goddess, as promised in the dream, had appeared as a Pancha Bhootha Swaroopini. In an earthern pot (Earth), propelled by the wind (Air), she had appeared through water (water), in the form of Neem Leaves that are used to reduce heat (Fire) and without a defined form (Sky).

For many years, the Goddess stayed on the frontyard of the Brahmin's house, bringing harmony, good health and happiness to the people of Mangudi. Those who came after him, desired to build a temple for the Goddess and a humble mandapa with a thatched roof was built.

About four hundred and fifty years later, in the 1950s, the first temple was built for the Goddess,which over time was developed into the current structure, with a Gopuram, Maha Mandapam, Artha Mandapam and a separate shrine for Lord Ganesha.

This Ganesha is said to have been found below the ground while digging for the foundation of a house in the village and has since found place next to Goddess Maakali!

The Goddess is now housed in the main shrine of the temple. The earthern pot in which she came has been fixed to the platform on which she resides. The Kalasam is decorated with fresh neem leaves which form the face of the Goddess. These neem leaves are changed every Friday and the water in the Kalasam is given to devotees to rid them of diseases.

The vibration in the sanctum is unbelievable. Usually, in temples, there is an idol which has been consecrated. Several yagnas are performed and mantras chanted, the Ashtabandhanam and the abhishekams add to the sanctity and divinity of the shrine, which in turn result in the vibrations.

Goddess Maakali of Mangudi

But here we are, in a shrine that has the Goddess in the formless form, manifesting through neem leaves in an unbaked earthen pot, and the vibrations are really strong. Every year, the Laksharchanai festival is celebrated with great glory. During this time, the priest goes up to the Pandavai river, to collect water in a new earthern pot, he then covers it with neem leaves and garlands, and performs avahanam of Goddess Kali and carries it over his head. Several villagers, start dancing to the tune of drums and chanting, and take turns to carry the earthern pot into the temple. The miracles that the Goddess has performed in this temple, must be heard narrated by the villagers. It is such a divine experience.

Apart from the Laksharchanai, festivals like Navarathri, Fridays in the months of Aadi and Thai are celebrated with a lot of festivity. Devotees flock here to offer Maavilakku, and garments to the Goddess. The favourite offering is Panakam ( a sweet drink with dried ginger and jaggery)

Acknowledgment: My sincere thanks to Swaminathan Natarajan and his brother-in-law Mr Ganesh Kumar Sundaresan whose Kula Deivam is the Goddess, for providing lovely pictures of the Goddess and the history of the temple during the Kumbabhishekam last year which prompted me to visit this very divine temple in June this year.

A close up picture of the Goddess Maakaali of Mangudi

How to get here: Mangudi is about 4 kms from Tiruvarur.

Contact Details: Sri T Narayanaswami aka Mani Iyer - 98943 67113
Kindly be mindful to call him during morning or evening hours if you want directions to the temple. He is senior in age, but nonetheless more than willing to help anyone visiting the temple.

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